I have a 94 Cherokee sport that I've had for 6-7 years. It's been laying in my driveway the past 4 years and a month ago I started slowly working on her again. Where I'm at now, I noticed my Jeep would start perfectly fine and then you could come back 2 minutes later and the Jeep wouldn't crank but I would see dash lights. Anyways, decided I was going to replace the Ignition switch before checking the alternator/starter but once I installed the new IS, my key turns without resistance but no cranking or lights on dashboard. I replace the new IS with the old one and still nothing. Does the IS NEED to be hooked up to the steering column to work properly or could I just hook in electrical cords and start it up that way? Cause that's how I've been testing it once I realized the car wasn't getting any action.

How hard is it to flub up the IS installation? It seemed pretty straightforward, the two groups of cords connected to the IS seem to seated but I do see a little copper, is that ok? Could this be an issue with the alternator and that's why I'm not seeing any dashboard lights? I really just want to make sure I'm not flubbing up the IS replacement because there aren't any good videos about it on youtube. Got a test light coming tomorrow that I'm going to check the fuses with. I forgot to unplug the ground before I replaced the IS, could I have blown a fuse that way?

 

My 98 is different, but what I have done is remove the key/lock cylinder and
then turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver to start it. That is one way to
test to see if the ignition switch works.

 

Not sure im following. So the ignition switch is hooked to the steering column, right? I know some people call the tumbler/ignition sleeve ignition switch as well. I haven't messed with the steering wheel/ tumbler at all.

 

My guess is the actuator rod either slipped out or is in the wrong position. Your ignition key only pushes/pulls a rod that runs down the column. The switch mounts to the base of the column (unlike the 97+). There's a metal rod with a 90 deg bend that inserts into the ign switch. There's a second metal rod that's the dimmer switch rod. Both need to be positioned and adjusted. LOT'S of YT vids on this.

This is the switch

 

very, very helpful, thanks. Didn't go about the actuator mod. Im a total newbie. I'll try this out and get back to you guys.

 

While there's more to it (and you should review a few vids) but make sure the key is in the accessory position and the switch is in accessory. You can use a punch or small screwdriver to move the slider bar into the right position. You can see the mounting holes are slotted. That allows some adjustment to take out any play/slack so the switch position exactly matches the key position. If off a bit, you may not be able to turn the key far enough to start (one example), or to get to accessory.

Make sure you check every key position several times and the dimmer by flashing the high beams before you put the lower panel back on.

 

Ok, played around with the actuator and now I'm getting my jeep to crank which is progress! My car didn't have any trouble starting before I replaced the switch and i dont think my dash lights are coming on when I turn the key. My head lights and heater turn on though. Could this be a problem with how I put together the ignition switch?

 

High beams work as well

 

Yep. Double check that both key and switch are in Accessory. Mount the switch but don't completely tighten the 2 bolts, just barely snug. Then gently push the switch towards the firewall to take up any slack in the rod. Do not move it so far that the switch changes position.

While you have the column down, Check the connector for signs of overheating/burning. There's a purple wire that carries a large load with the key in RUN and often overheats and can melt the connector.

 

Ok I'll try this out and report back!

 

So I went out and fiddled around some more with thr ignition switch. I was able to get dashboard lights on but the car wouldn't crank. Now I can't get it to crank or lights lol.

What's the IS accessory position? Is the hole closest to the steering wheel? Closest to firewall? I'm clearly not looking in the right place online.

And just to double check, accessory position is one click forward on the key switch?

 

The Accessory position is one key click counter clockwise.

From the '94 FSM:

"There are five positions on the ignition switch. The switch positions (in order) are: ACCESSORY, OFFLOCK, OFF, ON AND START (Figs. 4 or 5). Each position has a detent stop (except START), which is spring loaded to release when the key is released."

So the top of the key rotates towards you, not the dash. The the switch goes in accessory detent. This depends on tilt or no-tilt steering here's the pic.

 

arghh this is getting frustrating. Interpreted the figure as my IS hole being closes to the steering wheel. Did that and put my key in accessory (i think) and got my car to crank again but that's it. There doesn't seem to be much, if any slack in the rod so pushing the IS towards the firewall results in the IS switching detent. Searching for YouTube videos on ignition switches and I'm getting flooded with videos of key switches.

 

So this is the correct accessory position for key switch?

 

How can I tell if my steering column is tilt or not? Would the actuator rod be going in from the top as opposed to the bottom? If that's the case mine is definitely non tilt as I have to put it though the bottom.of the IS