Right now, my 92 XJ has very sagging rear suspension and the coils are probably too low. Does anyone have and specific recommendations of what brands/number to use? I'm looking at the and .

Both say that they are "heavy duty" will that make the ride firmer? Currently my dad who drives it is complaining about feeling every bump in the road.

I'm not really looking for a lift unless it is mild and requires no other modifications. Am I going to need new bolts or bushings? If so, which ones? It is a California vehicle and nothing is rusted.

 

Tell your Dad that the short wheelbase is going to cause you to feel every bump. Replacing your suspension parts with close to OEM will give you a firmer ride, but never like a land yacht ride of a Cadillac. After all..it's a Jeep

 

He bought this jeep like 20 years ago, so I assume he is comparing it to how it used to be. But it feels alright to me when I drive…

 

When I change Springs, I tend to put a lot of weight in the Jeep and drive it that way for a few weeks for the springs to settle. At first the ride is like a buckboard , but it does settle down

 

With a sagged out suspension your dad may actually be feeling every bump... through the bump stops. If you are going to go through the trouble of replacing springs, you should be prepared to replace the four link bushings for the front axle, sway bar bushings front and rear, front and rear brake hoses, bump stops front and rear, shocks and possibly ball joints. This sounds like a lot of work and it is, but on a rust free vehicle it can be done on a weekend. I assume you have the tools and skills needed to perform the work.

Read up as much as you can on this site about the individual jobs you will be doing. There are many gotchas that are easily dealt with if you know the secret. For example; The leaf spring bolts are held in place with red Loctite. In order to release these bolts, without doing damage that would require cutting and welding, you heat the head of the bolt with a propane torch. The heat will travel through the bolt to the nut and release the Loctite. Since the nut is not accessible this step saves you from cutting into the "frame" in order to put a wrench on the nut that broke loose from the weld holding it in place.

The CC782 coil springs are for the V8 Grand Cherokee and will lift the front end 1-3". They have a progressive spring rate, meaning they are stiffer the more they are flexed (larger bumps). I installed them on my 2001 XJ last year and I like them. Compared to the worn out original springs they are stiffer but I don't find them objectionable. I got about 3" of lift out of them, which is on the high end from what I have read.

The 929-301 leaf springs are the Upcountry replacement spring and are supposed to give about an 1" of lift. I also installed these springs on my XJ last year and like them as well. The previous owner installed longer shackles, so those combined with 1" of spring lift I have 3" of lift in the rear.

I would look at the following links for ideas and suggestions. You question has been addressed many times. I chose the 3" lift option because it was the least expensive and doesn't involve major modifications. Some may differ on my opinion but its worked well for me.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/zj...2/#post3724273
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...go-here-10579/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/

 

The 929-301 leaf springs seem to be heavy duty and after reading some reviews they seem to be a bit firmer than stock suspension.

Dorman has these options that seem to be stock. I'll probably get the middle one.
97-529;97-533;97-547;Im guessing the higher load values and pack thickness make it firmer, but what does free arch change?

 

Free arch is measuring the actual arch of the spring.. Drawing a line from eyelet to eylet and measuring down to the axle locating pin area...So that's your overall ride height with NO weight... Heavier spring/pack equals less arch drop with a certain weight...The lighter the spring capacity the better it will absorb the road shock through movement..Finding the perfect compromise between arch height and the springs ability to flex with road conditions is really the trick...