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Rear Main Seal Help?? New to Forum Please Help

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Old 07-30-2009, 05:21 PM
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Unhappy Rear Main Seal Help?? New to Forum Please Help

PLEASE READ IF YOU CAN..

First a little about me, so you don't get all pissy with my post...I'm 20 years old, and I'm not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to mechanics. I know simple things, engine type, etc. I believe the most in depth job I've ever performed alone was a throttle position sensor on my ex's lumina. I've attempted to learn, but I could be doing a lot better.

Now. I recently bought a 93 cherokee with a 4.0L in her. I find that when the jeep's been running a while, at high speeds, i'll see a little white smoke coming out behind me, and when i let off the gas it sometimes worsens. Only at higher speeds closer to 50mph.
The first time i noticed it i panicked, and looked all over and under the jeep. I found i have an oil leak dripping right onto my exhaust. And the brunt of the smoke was coming from there. I "googled" my problem and found that I most likely have a rear main seal leak.

Like an idiot I saw one of those additives, bought it...and it actually worked for a while, but now it's smoking again, and I'd prefer not to put more of that gunk into my engine. I found out that the rear main seal is between the engine and tranny on most cars so i panicked again, thinking the tranny needed to come out in order to properly fix this.

But I've read a few other threads that say, removing the oil pan, pump and rear main cap? is good enough to replace the seal. Now, I'm just looking for anyone who knows the proper answer...Do i need to remove the tranny on a 93 Jeep Cherokee to replace the rear main seal?

Also, I do have friends who can help me with this, and I'm sure a chilton book couldn't hurt, but just ASKING lol, what would a mechanic charge to do this for me?

Some people are saying to just junk it its a 93 with 165xxx but my father has an 87 wrangler that my grandparents bought off the show room floor. The thing never dies, and I'm beginning to think these jeep(chrysler) 4.0's are almost bulletproof. I'd like to fix this, engine and tranny stil run amazing.

Anyone who sat here and read this I appreciate you already. Please fill me in on any advice you have.
Old 07-30-2009, 05:34 PM
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Dont junk it!

Mine does the exact same thing. It does not hurt a thing, just annoying.
Old 07-30-2009, 05:37 PM
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really? I was under the impression the leak can't be good for pressure and therefore not good for the pump, I'd like to fix this baby up, not hurt her anymore.

I saw on another thread someone put high temp rubber silicon around where the seal goes?? doesn't sound like a great permanent fix but would it work?
Old 07-30-2009, 05:45 PM
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Dont worry yourself too much. The 4.0 is why I bought a jeep, it will go 300,000 miles easy. My oil pressure is solid at 40psi idel to 60psi under load. However it does not burn oil all the time. Only when it gets really hot!
Old 07-30-2009, 05:46 PM
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DONT JUNK IT!!

Mine was doing the exact same thing at higher speeds. I just fixed this on mine. You didn't say if it's a manual or 5 spd. Mine is an auto.

It was not too hard. Just time consuming and a PITA w/the auto tranny cooling lines lol.

What you want to do is drain the oil pan and then take out all the bolts on the oil pan. Probably about 20 bolts. 11MM I believe w/some odd bolts being 12 or 13MM. Make sure you have something to catch all that oil. There will be alot. You may or may not have to remove the inspection cover (in between tranny and oil pan) and unbolt the drivers side exhaust flange to drop the oil pan. It takes some wiggling to get out. Once it's out, there are 2 bolts holding where the seal is. The seal should be in 2 half moon pieces. Remove the piece holding the seal, and with a screw driver or something similar, push the seal on once side so that it sticks out on the other and pull it out with some needle nose pliers. Pressure wash the oil pan and install is reverse of removal. Sorry, it's a bit vague of a descrpition, but that's pretty much how we did it. Took me about 4.5 hours to do. And of course change the oil filter while youre at it. The Chiltons manual should explain it much better and with pics.
Old 07-30-2009, 05:49 PM
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Forgot, I would not use silicon on it. Just replace it.
Old 07-30-2009, 05:53 PM
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that's the answer i was looking for! haha
i have an auto as well, so I guess i'm glad to find out the tranny doesn't need to be dropped.
Unfortunately I don't have the load of tools, or really the knowledge to do this alone. It sounds like i can do this with a good ratchet set?

If i was to bring it to a mechanic, how badly would they rape me?
Old 07-30-2009, 05:55 PM
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Couple hundred... give or take arm and leg.
Old 07-30-2009, 05:57 PM
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and if i do it alone, it's the cost of the seal?? and tools? (thinking of getting 2 from advice on other threads incase i f**k up the first one)
Old 07-30-2009, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Steel_Jeep93
and if i do it alone, it's the cost of the seal?? and tools? (thinking of getting 2 from advice on other threads incase i f**k up the first one)

Yes sir.
Old 07-30-2009, 06:53 PM
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My total cost was like $12 for the seal. And I forgot to tell you, you need a new oil pan gasket seal. That was like $23. 6 quarts of oil and a mopar filter was like $16. Gasket sealant $4. So, I'd say about $55-$60 plus about 4-5 hours of your time. I only used a metric rathchet set, and some screwdrivers to pry, and razor blade to clean off old gasket. I had a compressor so it was easy to remove all the bolts. It IS a PITA to do those lol, but not hard. Just time consuming. You will also need a few extensions and a wrench set will help. And a BFH won't hurt. I never priced it, but I'd say like $300 + to do it at a mechanic.

Asking on a cpl other sites is a good idea.
Old 07-30-2009, 07:13 PM
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It is actually as easy as said before. At a shop your are probably looking at any where from $300-$500 for the job. Just plan on a full day under the jeep and a lot of cussing, it is an easy job, but it is also a Dirty Royal PITA job. The spare seal is a good idea, if you screw it up you are likely to know it BEFORE you reinstall the oil pan.
Old 07-30-2009, 07:18 PM
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By the way, BEFORE, you tear into the rear main. Make sure that the leak is not the valve cover gasket, oil pressure sender or O-ring seal in the filter adapter. These are all leak sources that are often found to be the real leak, only, after replacing the rear main.
Old 07-30-2009, 07:22 PM
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Save yourself some grief and jack up the body so the front axle hangs on the suspension. You'll get a ton more room with which to work out that oilpan. If your going to all that trouble splurge on a new Mopar high performance oilpump. not that expensive ($40-$50) and your already in the neighbourhood.
Old 07-30-2009, 07:33 PM
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[quote=Steel_Jeep93;240394]The first time i noticed it i panicked, and looked all over and under the jeep. I found i have an oil leak dripping right onto my exhaust. And the brunt of the smoke was coming from there. I "googled" my problem and found that I most likely have a rear main seal leak. [quote]

Hello and welcome to the board..I had the EXACT same problem and thought the cause was exactly the same..Rear main seal..(While I am not saying this is what is wrong with yours it did turn out to be my problem after I was sure the seal was the fault)...It turned out oil was leaking from the gasket behind the "Oil Filter Adapter" and then running down the side of the engine block, across a small ledge which ran along the side of the engine and was finally dripping down right in the area where you would see a rear main seal leak..It was also dripping down onto my exhaust pipe and making smoke come out from under my Jeep as it burned.

Even if this turns out not to be your problem As others have mentioned you just need to drop the oil pan..Good luck!


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