Rear Leaf Springs
05-11-2017, 12:24 AM
#1
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Location: Bethel, AK
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Rear Leaf Springs
Just wondering if there is any of you out there might know if anybody has ever used different vehicle's leaf springs? Asking cause mine just sags and I have a wide range of springs to choose from. Too many to name. Anybody?
05-11-2017, 01:30 AM
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
1995+ Jimmy or Blazer
Okay, I'm going off memory here and some of the details may be slightly off. But the end result and overall solution is an elegant one (engineering term).
About 140k miles ago, I had the same problem and sourced a set of rear leaf springs off of a 96 Jimmy. Technically these springs are 1/2" longer than stock and the "main center" bolt is to the rear of your stock bolt about 1" (give or take). But my spring perches (96 Country) have three holes in them so I mounted the springs such that the main bolt is in the rear (most aft) hole of the 3 holes. IIRC, the hole is square and you have to take an angle grinder and square off your bolt nut.
Unmodified, these springs are rated at 1400 lbs while your stock springs are rated in the 725 lbs range. When I first put them on, unmodified, it created about 3" lift over stock - over the 17" distance between the center of the hub and the wheel well trim. That made it out of whack with the front so I removed the smallest of the 3 curved leaves and reinstalled with just the two larger curved leaves plus the flat overload leaf. That did the trick. With the stock Jeep shackles, the end result was a 1" lift to an 18" (about 3 to 3.5" lift over the sagging stock springs) measurement between the hub center and the wheel well trim. I didn't put many miles on it with the unmodified springs and really can't say how harsh the ride was. See below.
If you use 2 curved leaves and the flat overload leaf you can reuse your U bolts. If you use all 3 curved leaves, you will need longer U bolts. Also, next time I do this I will drill a hole to position a bolt/nut in the most forward of the 3 holes on the perch. That will help keep everything nice and tight.
Along with this mod, I installed Moog CC782 coil springs in the front. Very nice result - the lift was 1.5" over stock. So now I'm lifted just a little more in the front than the rear. When doing next time I will adjust that with a different shackle. I believe a final shackle length of 1" longer than the stock Jeep should be about right. As indicated above the length of this spring is 1/2 inch longer than the Jeep. Adding 1" to the shackle length should result in about another 1/2" in lift. I could be wrong in that but that's what I'm going to try.
Ride: the ride is absolutely beautiful - and it was sheer luck because I didn't know what I was doing. It seems taught but not harsh. If for no other reason than the ride, every DD (or lift situation that is not going for a specific height) should consider this option. With good (new) front end parts, it drives like a sports car.
Still driving this Country with 296K on it and have just bought a 99 Classic with the Upcountry package. Lift and heights are about the same as the 96 Country but the 96 drives much better. Very flat in the corners but not harsh. I have bought the parts to do the exact same thing to the 99. The coil springs are dirt cheap on Amazon and the leaf springs are cheap on craigslist. Just look for someone parting out a Blazer or Jimmy. And that's about all a 95+ Blazer/Jimmy is good for - parting out. I bought a set of these springs off of a 97 Blazer for $40 (no rust here is the west) and that included the U bolts and GM shackles.
I hope this helps.
About 140k miles ago, I had the same problem and sourced a set of rear leaf springs off of a 96 Jimmy. Technically these springs are 1/2" longer than stock and the "main center" bolt is to the rear of your stock bolt about 1" (give or take). But my spring perches (96 Country) have three holes in them so I mounted the springs such that the main bolt is in the rear (most aft) hole of the 3 holes. IIRC, the hole is square and you have to take an angle grinder and square off your bolt nut.
Unmodified, these springs are rated at 1400 lbs while your stock springs are rated in the 725 lbs range. When I first put them on, unmodified, it created about 3" lift over stock - over the 17" distance between the center of the hub and the wheel well trim. That made it out of whack with the front so I removed the smallest of the 3 curved leaves and reinstalled with just the two larger curved leaves plus the flat overload leaf. That did the trick. With the stock Jeep shackles, the end result was a 1" lift to an 18" (about 3 to 3.5" lift over the sagging stock springs) measurement between the hub center and the wheel well trim. I didn't put many miles on it with the unmodified springs and really can't say how harsh the ride was. See below.
If you use 2 curved leaves and the flat overload leaf you can reuse your U bolts. If you use all 3 curved leaves, you will need longer U bolts. Also, next time I do this I will drill a hole to position a bolt/nut in the most forward of the 3 holes on the perch. That will help keep everything nice and tight.
Along with this mod, I installed Moog CC782 coil springs in the front. Very nice result - the lift was 1.5" over stock. So now I'm lifted just a little more in the front than the rear. When doing next time I will adjust that with a different shackle. I believe a final shackle length of 1" longer than the stock Jeep should be about right. As indicated above the length of this spring is 1/2 inch longer than the Jeep. Adding 1" to the shackle length should result in about another 1/2" in lift. I could be wrong in that but that's what I'm going to try.
Ride: the ride is absolutely beautiful - and it was sheer luck because I didn't know what I was doing. It seems taught but not harsh. If for no other reason than the ride, every DD (or lift situation that is not going for a specific height) should consider this option. With good (new) front end parts, it drives like a sports car.
Still driving this Country with 296K on it and have just bought a 99 Classic with the Upcountry package. Lift and heights are about the same as the 96 Country but the 96 drives much better. Very flat in the corners but not harsh. I have bought the parts to do the exact same thing to the 99. The coil springs are dirt cheap on Amazon and the leaf springs are cheap on craigslist. Just look for someone parting out a Blazer or Jimmy. And that's about all a 95+ Blazer/Jimmy is good for - parting out. I bought a set of these springs off of a 97 Blazer for $40 (no rust here is the west) and that included the U bolts and GM shackles.
I hope this helps.
05-11-2017, 11:24 AM
#3
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Year: 1990
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Hey thanks a million. Mine is a 90 Pioneer and it has either the 1.5" or 2" riser coil blocks but stock rear leafs. All this is great information but I think that I am just going to go with a lift that's 2.5" or bigger with rear leafs included. Don't want to put a band-aid on worn springs. Would you have any suggestions on which would be best on a Rural Alaskan street/trail? (Dirt, mud with some tundra, asphalt/gravel roads)
This is my daily driver and only one at that. Has 117k but that was before someone cut the cable and since I bought it, replaced it. I believe it has to be somewhere around 150-180k. If you look up Bethel, AK on google maps or anything, you'll see what terrain I'm talking about.
This is my daily driver and only one at that. Has 117k but that was before someone cut the cable and since I bought it, replaced it. I believe it has to be somewhere around 150-180k. If you look up Bethel, AK on google maps or anything, you'll see what terrain I'm talking about.
05-11-2017, 01:34 PM
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Band-aid?
I'm for every XJ owner tweaking their rig to suit their needs (or perceived needs) and having the fun and satisfaction of driving the end result.
That said, the above specified GM rear leafs are no band-aid. My rear was drooping at least 2" and, as detailed above, the modified Jimmy springs corrected that and added a 1" lift over stock specs. And I've got 140K on the setup with no change in height or ride. Very consistent and durable. There are many other things that will kill this XJ before the rear springs need repaired or redone.
Finally, have you just had a major change plans? Didn't you ask about alternate rear leafs, presumably from any make or model - you implied that you had access to many makes and models? You didn't say anything about putting a 2.5" lift kit on it???????????
Cheers,
Larry
That said, the above specified GM rear leafs are no band-aid. My rear was drooping at least 2" and, as detailed above, the modified Jimmy springs corrected that and added a 1" lift over stock specs. And I've got 140K on the setup with no change in height or ride. Very consistent and durable. There are many other things that will kill this XJ before the rear springs need repaired or redone.
Finally, have you just had a major change plans? Didn't you ask about alternate rear leafs, presumably from any make or model - you implied that you had access to many makes and models? You didn't say anything about putting a 2.5" lift kit on it???????????
Cheers,
Larry