Rear hatch, electrical woes...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
From: Quito, Ecuador
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6IL
Rear hatch, electrical woes...
When I joined the forums I just got a 99 XJ stock here in Ecuador. I am finally relocated and doing some work.
The rear wiper and electric lock/unlock stopped working. I am trying to diagnose. I tested all the connections etc and got down to this.
With the door open, the lock/unlock works, the wiper works. When I close the door they stop working.
I had the tough that when the door closes the lock is providing a ground of some kind. Or.. any ideas what to check?
I pulled the lock/unlock motor works fine. I checked the wiring.
The upper connector seems fine, I puled it, reconnected everything, and it is secure and not moving. Still, the harness could be going bad.
Thanks
The rear wiper and electric lock/unlock stopped working. I am trying to diagnose. I tested all the connections etc and got down to this.
With the door open, the lock/unlock works, the wiper works. When I close the door they stop working.
I had the tough that when the door closes the lock is providing a ground of some kind. Or.. any ideas what to check?
I pulled the lock/unlock motor works fine. I checked the wiring.
The upper connector seems fine, I puled it, reconnected everything, and it is secure and not moving. Still, the harness could be going bad.
Thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
You could verify the latch is providing ground by jumping it.
I don't think it's providing ground though. I think there's a wiring issue somewhere, usually it's in the harness at the top of the hatch that rubs and shorts out. My 95 has two sets of wires, one on each side.
I don't think it's providing ground though. I think there's a wiring issue somewhere, usually it's in the harness at the top of the hatch that rubs and shorts out. My 95 has two sets of wires, one on each side.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
From: Quito, Ecuador
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6IL
I checked those wires out and didn't see anything rubbing, etc.. I will check again.
Q. Is there a sensor to signal the hatch been closed? Or is this provided by the hatch contact with the latch on the body?
Is hard to diagnose when is close, and works fine when is open :-P
Q. Is there a sensor to signal the hatch been closed? Or is this provided by the hatch contact with the latch on the body?
Is hard to diagnose when is close, and works fine when is open :-P
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I had the same issue with my 98XJ. The harness running through the rubber boot looked fine - no tears or cuts that I could see. I pulled apart the connector at the top of the hatch and the connectors behind the spare tire (right above the fuel fill area) and tested for continuity. Testing this showed that the wire issue was where the harness passes from roof to hatch, in the door jamb.
So I pulled out the rubber boot, and when I started peeling away the factory electrical tape, the harness fell apart in my hands. Six wires were severed, two were chafed down to bare wire, and five seemed to be intact. These wires power your rear latch, rear wiper, defroster grid, CHMSL brake light, and your license plate light.
If nobody has better suggestions, you can take a multimeter and start checking for broken wires.
So I pulled out the rubber boot, and when I started peeling away the factory electrical tape, the harness fell apart in my hands. Six wires were severed, two were chafed down to bare wire, and five seemed to be intact. These wires power your rear latch, rear wiper, defroster grid, CHMSL brake light, and your license plate light.
If nobody has better suggestions, you can take a multimeter and start checking for broken wires.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
From: Quito, Ecuador
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6IL
I know this is old but wanted to say this resolved the issue. I removed the harness and opened it up and about half the wires inside it where cut. While is a pain to pull the harness out it is recommended to make the proper repair. I spliced my wires (just match colors) and all is well. Wiper, door lock and lights work fine. You can take the time to check out your third light etc while you have it all apart.
Thanks for the tips. They did solve the issues.
Thanks for the tips. They did solve the issues.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Western Mass
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I know this is old but wanted to say this resolved the issue. I removed the harness and opened it up and about half the wires inside it where cut. While is a pain to pull the harness out it is recommended to make the proper repair. I spliced my wires (just match colors) and all is well. Wiper, door lock and lights work fine. You can take the time to check out your third light etc while you have it all apart.
Thanks for the tips. They did solve the issues.
Thanks for the tips. They did solve the issues.
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Glad to help. I had so many broken wires inside the rubber boot that I just replaced the whole harness with a junkyard one. It is a little work fishing the harness through the roof, but I think it was much easier than making two dozen splices in the same tight spot.
I picked up the harness for fifteen bucks, and tested each wire for continuity with the freebie Harbor Freight tester before making the purchase.
I picked up the harness for fifteen bucks, and tested each wire for continuity with the freebie Harbor Freight tester before making the purchase.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
From: Quito, Ecuador
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6IL
Mine was the same. By looking the rubber itself was fine. When you take the harness out you realize how many of the wires are broke off. Mine is a 99 so in a way, well, age and bending a wire up and down. I guess it matters how often the rear door is used (a LOT).
Most of them I added a small "extension" so that they would not end up shorter/tighter. I figure that would add some flexibility. Unfortunately I don't have a solder to do the job properly.
It felt good to see everything working again, mostly the power lock. :-)
Most of them I added a small "extension" so that they would not end up shorter/tighter. I figure that would add some flexibility. Unfortunately I don't have a solder to do the job properly.
It felt good to see everything working again, mostly the power lock. :-)
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