Rear Brakes Lock up
Driving today I hit the brakes normally to slow down and the rear tires locked up. I hit the brakes a few more times and noticed 1 clunk sound each time I hit the brake pedal. Any ideas to what this could be?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
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From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
If your hitting the brake pedal normally and the rears are locking before the fronts grab it could be a couple of things:
1.) Most likley it is air in the lines. Bleed them really good.
2.) Could be a bad proportioning valve.
3.) Could be a bad Master Cylinder.
1.) Most likley it is air in the lines. Bleed them really good.
2.) Could be a bad proportioning valve.
3.) Could be a bad Master Cylinder.
I added brake fluid to the reservoir since it was just about empty and its not making the clunking sound anymore and its working a little better but the rear brakes still lock up a little.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
If the reservoir was almost empty then you definitely need to bleed your brakes!!!!!!!
I would guess either proportioning valve or out of adjustment or wheel cylinder. just my .02
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
would air in the lines make it so that your brakes would not work as well, not lock up? Just wondering because air compresses and that is why you get a soft or mushy pedal when they need bled. correct me if i'm wrong.
I would guess either proportioning valve or out of adjustment or wheel cylinder. just my .02
I would guess either proportioning valve or out of adjustment or wheel cylinder. just my .02
Air in front lines would cause them to NOT work as well as the rears and would cause the rears to lock before enough pressure could be put on the pedal to make the fronts work.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
If the rear reservoir was almost empty it means you have a leak. I'd start by following the lines all the way to the rear drums. And then check the wheel cylinders. Yours shoes are probably soaked in brake fluid causing the lock up.


Pull the drums and have a peek. It doesn't cost anything and you can clean all the rust and brake dust out of there. I'll bet you find leaking wheel cylinder and contaminated swelled-up brake shoes.
SJ
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
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I don't agree. As brake pads wear, the caliper stays farther out of the bore. As it stays farther out, fluid has to be in the bore to take up the space. This will cause the fluid level in the master cylinder to naturally drop over time. Therefore, you will have to add a little from time to time to keep it topped off.
When you replace your pads and manually force the caliper to retract, the fluid will flow back into the master cylinder. Some may have to be suctioned out to keep it from overflowing.
When you replace your pads and manually force the caliper to retract, the fluid will flow back into the master cylinder. Some may have to be suctioned out to keep it from overflowing.


