Rear Brake Cylinder Burst
So this weekend I went to drive, put my parking brake off and the light stayed on. Upon searching this online people said to check for the vertical stripes on the insides of the tires, which I did. The stripes are there on the left rear tire. Could anyone tell me how easy of a fix this should be? I have done simple stuff on my jeep, ie. replaced brake pads and rotors, new radiator, new water pump, and wanted to know if it would be in my capacity to fix this myself and save some money.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by jonesey604; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
If you can do shoes and pads you should be able to replace that, the only part that is a pain in the butt is bleading the brakes, but all you would need is a buddy to help with that. firestone by my house quoted 350 just to replace that part, so it would be a big savings if you do it yourself.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 5
From: Arkansas
Year: 1987 & 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replace the brake wheel cylinder.
you can get a rebuild kit for them too,
Like was said if you can do a brake job on drums you can replace the wheel cylinder too.
If you take it apart and forget how to get it back together you can pull the drum on the other side and look at it as an example.
you can get a rebuild kit for them too,
Like was said if you can do a brake job on drums you can replace the wheel cylinder too.
If you take it apart and forget how to get it back together you can pull the drum on the other side and look at it as an example.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Sounds like the wheel cylinder.Plan on the possibility that you might break the brake line when you try to break the bleeder valve loose so prepare for that.Even if you do bust the brake line it isnt that hard to replace either.
To do the wheel cylinder you will need to pull the brakes apart on the side of the vehicle that needs the wheel cylinder.Juts so you know.
Should mention that if any brake fluid gets on the brake shoes then it is best to replace the shoes.You will never be able to completely remove the brake fluid from the brake shoes.
To do the wheel cylinder you will need to pull the brakes apart on the side of the vehicle that needs the wheel cylinder.Juts so you know.
Should mention that if any brake fluid gets on the brake shoes then it is best to replace the shoes.You will never be able to completely remove the brake fluid from the brake shoes.
Last edited by Spoonman; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:45 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,091
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From: Harleysville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Powertech
well either the line is leaking or the wheel cylinder. should be obvious when you see it. if you know how to put on new drum brakes, then its easy, but if not grab a repair manual and a free saturday to figure it out. maybe even put new shoes on it if needed anyways!
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: S.E. Tx
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 firepower ignition, cat-back w/ magnaflow muffler, poweraid tb spacer, optima blue top
Its easy, don't worry about it. You do the same thing as replacing the shoes, plus two bolts that hold on the wheel cylinder, and the brake line. Like previously stated replace shoes if brake fluid gets on them, replace both cylinders at the same time, and bleed the system. Also if its been throwing brake fluid you might want to check the paint because brake fluid eats paint.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 89
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From: Yakima, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6
A rear wheel cylinder is $10 from Autozone, and a new set of brake shoes is $22. I wouldn't bother with trying to rebuild the old wheel cylinder, the cost of a new one is so cheap it probably would not be worth your effort, and if it leaked you would have to buy a new one anyway.
As early in the process as possible spray the brake line fitting with penetrating oil. This will reduce the chance of ruining the fitting when you try to remove it.
Since this is the first time you've done it, set aside an afternoon and plan to replace both sides. Block your front wheels, jack up the rear end and remove the wheels.
If the rear brakes have not been changed before there may be a screw holding the drum on the axle (use a hammer style impact driver to remove it). Other than that it may take a few taps with a hammer to loosen the drum from the axle.
Once the drum is off get a digital camera and take a picture of where all the springs and clips go, then go print a copy of it before you get really grubby.
Use channel locks, vice grips, needle nose pliers and screw drivers to remove the various springs and clips which hold everything in place. They make a couple of special tools which makes the process of removing and installing these springs and clips much easier. You can get a set for less than $20 from most auto parts stores, but I've always managed just fine doing it the hard way.
Once you've removed the springs, clips and brake shoes it's time to remove the brake line from the back of the cylinder. Hopefully it's been soaking in penetrating oil for a while. If you do not have a set of flair nut wrenches use a good quality open end wrench (cheap Chinese made wrenches have sloppy tolerances, they will slip and round off the fitting then you will be stuck replacing the brake line as well as the cylinder). Break the fitting loose then tighten it back up just enough so it’s not leaking brake fluid everywhere.
Now remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the brake backing plate. Remove the brake line from the cylinder and as quickly as possible reconnect the new cylinder to the brake line. Reinstall the bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate then tighten the brake line fitting.
Reinstall the brake shoes and hardware according to the printed photo. You may have to back the adjuster screw off to get everything together properly (you will then need to readjust it accordingly). Once everything is installed correctly do the other side then get a friend to help you bleed the brakes.
None of this is hard or expensive. It can be tedious and dirty, but you will save about $200 and you won't have to have the Jeep towed to a shop (it's not safe to drive in it's present condition).
As early in the process as possible spray the brake line fitting with penetrating oil. This will reduce the chance of ruining the fitting when you try to remove it.
Since this is the first time you've done it, set aside an afternoon and plan to replace both sides. Block your front wheels, jack up the rear end and remove the wheels.
If the rear brakes have not been changed before there may be a screw holding the drum on the axle (use a hammer style impact driver to remove it). Other than that it may take a few taps with a hammer to loosen the drum from the axle.
Once the drum is off get a digital camera and take a picture of where all the springs and clips go, then go print a copy of it before you get really grubby.
Use channel locks, vice grips, needle nose pliers and screw drivers to remove the various springs and clips which hold everything in place. They make a couple of special tools which makes the process of removing and installing these springs and clips much easier. You can get a set for less than $20 from most auto parts stores, but I've always managed just fine doing it the hard way.
Once you've removed the springs, clips and brake shoes it's time to remove the brake line from the back of the cylinder. Hopefully it's been soaking in penetrating oil for a while. If you do not have a set of flair nut wrenches use a good quality open end wrench (cheap Chinese made wrenches have sloppy tolerances, they will slip and round off the fitting then you will be stuck replacing the brake line as well as the cylinder). Break the fitting loose then tighten it back up just enough so it’s not leaking brake fluid everywhere.
Now remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the brake backing plate. Remove the brake line from the cylinder and as quickly as possible reconnect the new cylinder to the brake line. Reinstall the bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate then tighten the brake line fitting.
Reinstall the brake shoes and hardware according to the printed photo. You may have to back the adjuster screw off to get everything together properly (you will then need to readjust it accordingly). Once everything is installed correctly do the other side then get a friend to help you bleed the brakes.
None of this is hard or expensive. It can be tedious and dirty, but you will save about $200 and you won't have to have the Jeep towed to a shop (it's not safe to drive in it's present condition).
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: Marshall, WI
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
A rear wheel cylinder is $10 from Autozone, and a new set of brake shoes is $22. I wouldn't bother with trying to rebuild the old wheel cylinder, the cost of a new one is so cheap it probably would not be worth your effort, and if it leaked you would have to buy a new one anyway.
And you can do this no problem, do one side at a time so you have a reference point if needed.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 1
From: Finger Lakes Region NY
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
the cyliders, springs, shoes, both sides are like $70 bucks total as opposed to $350 at Otto the mechanics joint. the 1st side will take the novice shade tree mechanic 30 minutes to get it apart and back together. the other side will then take 10 minutes cause you'll know what to pull and when to pull it. also be prepared to answer the register jocky at your parts store if you have 9" or 10" brake drums.
Hey thanks everybody for the useful responses, I am definitely just going to do it myself this upcoming Saturday. And Agent Orange, I like that you used the phrase shade tree mechanic because I do sometimes pull the Cherokee up under the shade of trees.


