rear 4 link?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 10
From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
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You didn't watch extreme 4x4 this weekend? Ian showed us all how to build a rear 4 link!! it was a good show... should have seen it!! there are several variations of the 4 link. do some research elsewhere if you don't find anything here. i wouldn't spend 1500$ on a kit. just build!!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
From: eaton ohio
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You didn't watch extreme 4x4 this weekend? Ian showed us all how to build a rear 4 link!! it was a good show... should have seen it!! there are several variations of the 4 link. do some research elsewhere if you don't find anything here. i wouldn't spend 1500$ on a kit. just build!!
lol i did watch it im just askin around for some ideas about where to mount the endlinks, like if i should weld them on the unibody somewhere or make up a crossmember to mount them to or something like that
the thing you have to remember is that we have unibodys and he was working with frame rails. so there is a lot more work to it than just slapping on some mounts and calling it a day. that is why the aftermarket kits cost so much
yes... being these are uni bodies you are def gonna need some support under there!!! if it was me i would build a new cross member to go between the somewhat frame rails and bolt it and weld it. then make a plate to bolt/weld to the cross member then put your 4 link mounts to that. but i would def tie it into whatever you can find under there( frame rails, floor, pretty much everything!!)
my response was directly geared towards the following statement by you:
the fab work for coil buckets is SIMPLE. that's easy as hell.
the fab work for your mounting points isn't too hard as long as you're a good welder and fabricator.
the geometry of the setup is the hardest part, but frankly I don't think it's too hard to get right. if you do your setup correctly, you may be off by 1" or less. and if you're smart in your design, they're adjustable to make up for that 1" without stressing the joints too much more.
I don't see why everyone craps over building longarms. fabrication is NOT that big of a deal. cut, grind, fit, repeat until it fits, then copy for the other side.
I'm doing a wishbone 3-link in the rear of my MJ when I'm to that point. the upper link will have it's body side mounts behind the axle, with a trussed mount and a superflex joint at the center of the axle, and the lowers will be coming from towards the front of the truck to the axle, with the superflex joints on the axle and bushings on the body.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.
the fab work for coil buckets is SIMPLE. that's easy as hell.
the fab work for your mounting points isn't too hard as long as you're a good welder and fabricator.
the geometry of the setup is the hardest part, but frankly I don't think it's too hard to get right. if you do your setup correctly, you may be off by 1" or less. and if you're smart in your design, they're adjustable to make up for that 1" without stressing the joints too much more.
I don't see why everyone craps over building longarms. fabrication is NOT that big of a deal. cut, grind, fit, repeat until it fits, then copy for the other side.
I'm doing a wishbone 3-link in the rear of my MJ when I'm to that point. the upper link will have it's body side mounts behind the axle, with a trussed mount and a superflex joint at the center of the axle, and the lowers will be coming from towards the front of the truck to the axle, with the superflex joints on the axle and bushings on the body.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.


