COS, not stupid at all. That is a possiblility and usually one that will make the owner mad trying to find the sound replacing all the parts they think it is. I have seen pebbles get behind beauty rings on GM rallye wheels and rattle when you would drive. I have had the center cap on my GM rallyes loosen and rattle as well so no reason these could do it too.

 

My caps on the Jeep are tight but the ones on my pickup rattle pretty bad so that is worth looking into. If the anti-rattle clips for the brakes are not installed with new pads then they will make a noise until the pads wear in. Mine on the car did but I altered some Camaro anti rattle clips to work and now they are quiet.

 

The center caps are fed through the back, so for them to be loose the wheel would have to be loose. But I checked them and all is tight.

Checked the front driveshaft u-joint, and there's no play or clunking that I can tell.

BUT, I stopped to fill up on my way home today and decided to check the front hub. The driver's side u-joint has about 1/4" of play in it on one axis but not the other. Sooo, needle bearings are toast, correct? I'm gonna leave the Jeep parked tomorrow and drive a loaner to work, then try and replace the u-joint in the afternoon. If it takes a second day, so be it.

Found this write-up and it looks doable. http://www.myjeepxj.com/index.php?pa...nt-replacement

Any recommendations or warnings before I start taking stuff apart?

 

That is a pretty good write-up the only thing to add is that I tack weld the caps in place instead of using the clips. If you lose a clip and the u-joint comes apart it will cross the axle up and snap the ears off of the axle or the stubaxle. Just something I have been doing for a few dozen years but is just for safety sake and not required.

 

Good tip, Blue. I may do that just to reinforce the construction a bit.

Any pros or cons to greasable / standard u-joints? I would just assume greasable is better, but there could be something I'm not considering.

 

The greaseable ones are not adviseable b/c the grease channel is a hollow part inside the cross thus making them weaker. They will have a tendancy to fracture when put in a bind. Buy the very best that you can afford. CTM or Ox are the best but kinda expensive.

 

Kinda what I was thinking on the greasable ones. I want SOLID!

And Ox would be my first choice, but I'm a dirt poor Jeeper, so over the counter u-joints will have to do. If they fail again, or I decided to do an overhaul, Ox will go in next time around.

 

Just get standard u-joints. They last a long time if you don't see mud on a daily basis. About once a year i take the u-joints apart and regrease them manually. It's more work but makes em last longer.

That's a good write-up. I use my ball joint press to make things easier.

 

Oh by the way, glad you found the problem!

 

Thanks bud!

And I aint got no stinking ball joint puller. I don't NEED no stinking ball joint puller! But ball joints are next on my list of repairs, or at least they were before the u-joint surprise.

 

I just did mine. maybe you should grab them and do them while you have the axle shafts already out? Save ya time.

 

You can rent/buy the ball joint tool at most parts places. Make sure the one you get isn't bent. Some ppl abuse them and then if you don't notice it you will have bought a defective tool.

 

Well, the plan was a ball joint / u-joint / wheel bearing overhaul in the not too distant future, but since this u-joint needs fixed NOW, I'm just gonna worry about it so I can get the Jeep back on the road, as its my only vehicle. When I've got a free weekend and the money, the overhaul will take place.

 

"You can do it" and you have to say it like Rob on the waterboy.

 

"You can do eeeet!"