Radiator hose leak
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Some of those old radiator hoses will deform so bad they will never seal right, just get a new one.
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 31
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Model: Cherokee
Yes, but gravity will cause the water to move towards the bottom. Also, you should replace your thermostat while you are in there. Here's what I've replaced on mine:
Hoses+clamps
Mopar OEM Thermostat+OEM Gasket
Mopar OEM Radiator Cap
Water Pump
Fan Clutch
Coolant Recovery Tank (mine was clogged with rust)+Recovery Hose
Electric Fan (fan wasn't broken, but the plastic was so brittle that it wouldn't mount properly)
You probably don't need to do the last two, but if you do the others you should have no problem cooling your Jeep (assuming your radiator is good). Radiator is next on my list...
Hoses+clamps
Mopar OEM Thermostat+OEM Gasket
Mopar OEM Radiator Cap
Water Pump
Fan Clutch
Coolant Recovery Tank (mine was clogged with rust)+Recovery Hose
Electric Fan (fan wasn't broken, but the plastic was so brittle that it wouldn't mount properly)
You probably don't need to do the last two, but if you do the others you should have no problem cooling your Jeep (assuming your radiator is good). Radiator is next on my list...
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 118
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Model: Cherokee
a pic would help.
are you saying your system has been reworked to include a degassing reservoir (with pressure cap)? or, are you talking about the overflow aka puke bottle?
edited to add:
if you're leaking coolant, your system isn't closed- it's open... in an open system, your water/coolant mix will boil... those bubbles slap metal as hard as sand slaps metal, and is what is referred to as cavitation- it can kill hard metal parts where ever boiling is present... if you're weeping through the pump, you need to replace it. if your hose isn't gripping, you need to make sure it does (do the dishwashing soap trick)... you also need to figure out what configuration of cooling system you have- it can, in fact, have a closed radiator and rely on the puker as a degas bottle (but IT now has a pressure cap instead of the radiator).... but that would be a lot of work for a cherokee... the system HAS to be under pressure, though, to keep from boiling- there is only one way around that, and I doubt very seriously somebody (prior owner?) has taken the time (and $$$) to do that. A pic of the subject would help dramatically.
are you saying your system has been reworked to include a degassing reservoir (with pressure cap)? or, are you talking about the overflow aka puke bottle?
edited to add:
if you're leaking coolant, your system isn't closed- it's open... in an open system, your water/coolant mix will boil... those bubbles slap metal as hard as sand slaps metal, and is what is referred to as cavitation- it can kill hard metal parts where ever boiling is present... if you're weeping through the pump, you need to replace it. if your hose isn't gripping, you need to make sure it does (do the dishwashing soap trick)... you also need to figure out what configuration of cooling system you have- it can, in fact, have a closed radiator and rely on the puker as a degas bottle (but IT now has a pressure cap instead of the radiator).... but that would be a lot of work for a cherokee... the system HAS to be under pressure, though, to keep from boiling- there is only one way around that, and I doubt very seriously somebody (prior owner?) has taken the time (and $$$) to do that. A pic of the subject would help dramatically.
Last edited by drewactual; Sep 14, 2016 at 10:02 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
The beauty of the pressure tester, (borrow one from a parts store they all have them) you put it on a cold car, pump it up to whatever the pressure is supposed to be, like 14 or 17 then watch the gauge. If it drops, you have a leak. On the non running car you can then hunt for the leak, because the pressure will keep the leak going. If the pressure stays up, then you do not have a leak.. If you cannot find any leak but it's still dripping, then suspect internal problem like head gasket.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
The beauty of the pressure tester, (borrow one from a parts store they all have them) you put it on a cold car, pump it up to whatever the pressure is supposed to be, like 14 or 17 then watch the gauge. If it drops, you have a leak. On the non running car you can then hunt for the leak, because the pressure will keep the leak going. If the pressure stays up, then you do not have a leak.. If you cannot find any leak but it's still dripping, then suspect internal problem like head gasket.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
a pic would help.
are you saying your system has been reworked to include a degassing reservoir (with pressure cap)? or, are you talking about the overflow aka puke bottle?
edited to add:
if you're leaking coolant, your system isn't closed- it's open... in an open system, your water/coolant mix will boil... those bubbles slap metal as hard as sand slaps metal, and is what is referred to as cavitation- it can kill hard metal parts where ever boiling is present... if you're weeping through the pump, you need to replace it. if your hose isn't gripping, you need to make sure it does (do the dishwashing soap trick)... you also need to figure out what configuration of cooling system you have- it can, in fact, have a closed radiator and rely on the puker as a degas bottle (but IT now has a pressure cap instead of the radiator).... but that would be a lot of work for a cherokee... the system HAS to be under pressure, though, to keep from boiling- there is only one way around that, and I doubt very seriously somebody (prior owner?) has taken the time (and $$$) to do that. A pic of the subject would help dramatically.
are you saying your system has been reworked to include a degassing reservoir (with pressure cap)? or, are you talking about the overflow aka puke bottle?
edited to add:
if you're leaking coolant, your system isn't closed- it's open... in an open system, your water/coolant mix will boil... those bubbles slap metal as hard as sand slaps metal, and is what is referred to as cavitation- it can kill hard metal parts where ever boiling is present... if you're weeping through the pump, you need to replace it. if your hose isn't gripping, you need to make sure it does (do the dishwashing soap trick)... you also need to figure out what configuration of cooling system you have- it can, in fact, have a closed radiator and rely on the puker as a degas bottle (but IT now has a pressure cap instead of the radiator).... but that would be a lot of work for a cherokee... the system HAS to be under pressure, though, to keep from boiling- there is only one way around that, and I doubt very seriously somebody (prior owner?) has taken the time (and $$$) to do that. A pic of the subject would help dramatically.
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