What the red circle

 

My electric fan always cuts on at 210. And that's just when sitting cause when I'm moving the air from the speed keeps it cool. You could try to flush the coolant and see if that keeps it from gettin that hot.

 

Our XJ is a plainer janer SE.....except for the mirrors.....power nothing. Previous owner had the dealer install electric lock/unlock servos in the doors and tailgate.....the switch (red circle) works the servos.

U may have a deteriorating fan clutch.....do u know how old it is?

 

Well I'm all electric right now, and I have them on a switch. But isn't it normal for the e fan to jump in when the engine gets hot?

 

Factory efan "on" temp is 218F. "All electric fan set-up" may be the issue, especially now that ambient temps have cooled down. I'm not aware of a 10"-11" aftermarket efan that pulls as many CFM as the OE efan and the OE belt fan will pull way more CFM than the OE efan at just above idle speed.

 

Is this accurate information? Damn, so I've been running my AC compressor all winter long? If we remove the AC clutch relay will the AC fan continue to cycle still?

 

No, but it may throw a CEL.

 

You can detach the electrical connector from the Low Pressure Cycling Switch on top of the AC Accumulator. Place a piece of electrician's tape accross the open end of the connector until you're ready to reinstall it.

This will disable the AC request signal from the Low Pressure Switch to the PCM. Without the AC request signal, the PCM will remove the ground from the AC relay, deactivating the AC clutch. No AC in AC mode or Defrost mode.

 

Compressor activates in defrost mode to move refrigerant & lubricate the shaft seal. There is a very remote possibility of a dry start after sitting unused for 6 months so that’s why they did it. Back in the old early carbureted lean burn days the compressor kicked on for 5 seconds when you shut the engine off, only way to stop the damn thing.

 

Spot on.

My POS 2000 Chrysler T&C owner's manual says the following about placing the vehicle in storage:

"Anytime you store your vehicle for two weeks or more, run the airconditioning system at idle for about five minutes in fresh air and high blower setting. This will insure adequate system lubricaion to minimize the possibility of compressor damage when the system is started again."

I have not found this sort of thing mentioned in my 1999 Cherokee owner's manual or FSM.

sthon,

If you do deactivate your AC per what I described, you may want to follow these T&C storage instructions.

 

Is the HVAC dial a simple contact dial (such that the electrical circuit is physically completed by the dials position)? If so there must be some sort of brass contact for those "AC Compresser ON" locations. Perhaps I could then just modify the dial to remove those? I am not concerned with improper lubrication of the HVAC system...I can cycle this manually. What I don't want to do is waste energy that is unnecessary in low humidity Colorado. Plus running the AC all the time puts additional wear on the compressor and compressor clutch assembly.

 

The A/C Heater Control (HVAC control) does have electrical contacts that do complete circuits, but there's no "AC Compressor On" position. The AC Compressor is controlled by the PCM when the PCM receives signals from the A/C Heater Control selections and pressure switches in the Freon system. Mods to the A/C Heater Control selectors would not achieve what you want to do.

 

+1,000,000 that's my #1 reason for driving a Jeep Cherokee, I also recycle paper clips, Kleenex and toliet paper (yea I know it's gross, but I'm green).

Sorry, I had too.

Disconnect the connector @ the low pressure switch & no more A/c.

 

So you drive with your headlight on all the time too then I take it?

Nothing wrong with being efficient and wanting to bypass a system that does me no net positive in my scenario.

 

Good thing you don't live in Canada. Canadian Jeeps have daytime running lamps...What a waste of energy.