Thundercracker

I was looking online via the google and I saw a few people who have modified their stock roof rack (I have a 96 XJ). The mod is simple...the roof rack is the length of the whole roof obviously...I have seen where some guys have cut a length off the rack and reattached the caps. Basically what I am looking at is the mod'ed rack would start just behind the drivers seat and go back, so I will remove about 25% of the front of the rails.
So my question is the holes where the bolts go. Has anyone done with mod? I am wondering if these holes go all the way through the roof...I replaced the headliner a few months ago but dont recall if I saw holes for these bolts or not. Also any idea how to fill these holes? I am thinking fill with bondo and use touch up paint to match or I can cut the screws of the excess length so they are flush with the roof panel and paint them to match.
Any ideas or input is appriciated....thanks!

Thundercracker

Found a pic of what I am talking about...love the look of this.

SteveMongr

They are 'threaded inserts' that are not removable. And open to interior if not filled.
When I removed the rack I put the torx bolts back in the holes with a little RTV on the threads. Looked good.

Turbo X_J

What mod? that's the way it is man.

SteveMongr

The '96 has full length rails, goes over drivers head.
Better for carrying surfboards.

SuperRA

That's a stock rack for a later model like 1999-2001. Just google search images for "2000 Jeep Cherokee" and you will see that rack on all of them.

I put one of these on my 87, but had to weld up some holes and make some new ones as well.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/ne...en-new-179416/

I guess there aren't too many pics showing it well though. Mainly the last two pics.

if you do it though, bondo will NOT last. You should do it the right way by welding. You probably didn't see the holes when doing the headliner because they are semi hidden under (above from the inside) a sheet metal stiffener that runs the length of the roof. (if memory serves me correctly)

5-90

The roof rack is attached via some OEM screws with an oddball thread going into mating rubber well nuts (rubber nuts that look like an old stovepipe hat, they have a brass insert that mates with the threads on the screw. The screw is tightened, the insert is pulled up, and the rubber shell bulges out into the hole.) This provides a generally rattle-free fit, and helps to seal the hole against weather intrusion - but the rubber does wear out.

The holes in the roof panel do go all the way through it - it's just sheet metal, after all.

I had to peel my roof rack off entirely - the holes were plugged up using 1/4"-20 machine screws and washers (brass,) 1/4"-20 well nuts, and a light coating of Auto Glass Sealer (a light-bodied RTV) to assist in sealing. Did that eight years ago - hasn't leaked yet.

If you want to go to the trouble, you can strip the paint around the holes and plug-weld them. You may also use machine screws (suggest brass or CRES) with rubber-bonded sealing washers - I'm not sure what size you'd need, but I'm thinking probably 3/8" or 7/16". Using AGS under the washers would be helpful (the rubber bonded sealing element also has an undersize hole, to seal against the screw. A bit of AGS on the screw threads similarly will not go amiss. The use of Nylon-collar locknuts is likewise a good idea - else, you can deform the threads on the screw or the nut using methods I have outlined elsewhere. This will help keep the screws tight against vibration and the like.)