Hello.

Just throwing this out there in case anybody has any additional thoughts or input.

I start my Jeep up and it runs rough, seems like all the cylinders are not firing, and the cheap code reader I have just says primary circuit coil C and B open consistently, those are the only codes.

I put a new Blue Streak coil rail in and it's the same codes after replacement I got a new wiring harness from the scrap yard and it's the same codes.

I got a new PCM from the scrap yard and it's the same codes. When I plug in my old PCM it won't even start, in all honesty, I did open it up to see if there was anything loose and put it back together. I don't trust this replacement PCM at all and I'm thinking of ordering a masterpro refurbished unit. The replacement unit looks like garbage compared to the one I took out. I know that could just be from sitting with no hood in a scrap yard.
I've tested the continuity from the PCM to the coil and that's fine. Power to the coil connector is good as well. I've tried testing the coil drivers with a multimeter one seems to fluctuate around 13 volts and the other two around 12v. I feel like the fluctuations happening too fast for the multimeter to pick up whether they are functioning correctly or not.

it does start up and seem to run good for about 5-10 seconds then the idle drops and it just starts running like crap. If it's really cold and hasn't ran all night it'll run for about 20 seconds solid really good before it goes closed loop.

I've also put in a TPS, IAC, and CKP, and CPS, and o2 sensor.

I've tried unplugging the TCM- makes no difference

Ive verified the PCM grounds are solid and so is power to the PCM while the engine is running

I just ordered a replacement ckp- ntk brand just in case this sensor is wacky.

the grounds to the head to firewall battery to block battery to firewall are all solid.

the engine was rebuilt about 50,000 miles ago so I doubt the timing is randomly off. It had a new timing chain at the time and synthetic oil since.

Any further suggestions will be great. For what it's worth the gauge cluster has been intermittent and mostly off since before this all started, no bus. I feel like it's unrelated I cleaned the grounds near the PCM, the other day, at the same time I swapped the ckp and on the second startup it ran great and I got almost all the way around the block before it went crazy again.

I'm definitely going to order a replacement PCM to rule it out because right now it seems like the coil drivers are not firing although I can't definitively prove it. It seems like the coil a driver is fluctuating at around 13 volts while the other are at 11 or 12.

the harness wiggle test and all that doesn't change the way it runs plus it's got the replacement harness from the scrap yard which is in much better condition than the heat soaked one I pulled out.

I've pulled off the coil Rail and tested resistance between each group and all that is consistent and normal so I don't think the coil rail is bad.

www.charm.li

You can find the troubleshooting guide you need and test procedures for every dtc. Even without chryslers drb tool this is the best resource.

I think you should invest in a better OBD reader that could help you diagnose the issue(s).

This link will take you to the FSM (in PDF format). Refer to the specific trouble codes you are getting and the diagnostic process it will walk you through.

While there, grab the parts manual and any other docs that interest you.

https://xjjeeps.com/

The coil rail has 4 wires to it. Pin 2 dark green/orange is hot 12v all the time key on that powers all 3 coils all the time. Pins 1/3/4 are the coil driver grounds that the pcm grounds with the inputs from the crank sensor. 1 driver grounds and fires 1 coil which fires 2 plugs at same time (wasted spark) if your reader sees 2 coil driver failures then 4 plugs do not work....will not run at all. Your reader is not set up to interpret a coil rail system

Thanks for the resources much appreciated. Long story short I put the ntk ckp sensor on and the issue is resolved.
Before this all started, I swapped out the transmission with a used one from deadjeeps.com. while I had to flywheel out I noticed the surface area was a little uneven and I tried to bend parts of it back into place. I must have bent one piece out slightly because it smoked 2 ckp sensors in a row. I couldn't figure out what the clanking sound was after I fired it up and just now after I replace the ckp sensor, I realized my mistake. And when I pulled the old replacement sensor off sure enough the surface was rubbed away.

I don't want to have to take the whole transmission out so I might back the ckp sensor off a little bit if possible I think I can file a tiny little bit of the mounting holes away. But with the new ntk sensor and there's no more codes and it runs great. And it did seem a tiny bit shorter than the Master Pro sensor.

Glad it's fixed. Thanks for posting back with the solution.