Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:03 AM
  #16  
Rogue4x4's Avatar
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
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Cheapest doesn't equal best.

Buy quality, cry once.
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 11:01 AM
  #17  
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
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At least 1/3 of the reviews on that chinese Amazon starter talk about them being horribly noisy at first. Presumably they get quieter after they self clearance themselves by grinding away the end of the pinion or the teeth on the flywheel. Then again the remanf ones tend to be pretty low quality.
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 11:33 AM
  #18  
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I rebuilt mine myself. Not that difficult to do, and a fun [educational] project. Generally speaking the brush set wears down from age to the point where they won't contact the commutator bars anymore (just too worn out to carry electricity to the commutator), and yeah they get oil-satrated too. AND, the electrical contacts inside the solenoid eventually become erroded away from years of use. Both are normal wear items ....and inexpensive and readily available to buy off ebay and other places.

If that's the case upon disassembly, ...and all the resistance checks check out, just buy those new parts and anything else you determine it needs. Other than that, it's a pretty straight-forward project. I bought genuine Mitsubishi parts (what mine was) off ebay. They probably don't need to be "Genuine" but ...that's what I did. The no-name stuff looks good too, I just happened to find someone selling Mitsubishi parts reasonably priced. The brush set looked like the pic (and link) below ...and the new set was exactly the same as the originals from '87! So they must still be making them with the same tooling. Your starter should have a tag or #'s on it ...or just match up the brushes. This is a real common starter used on a lot of applications for many years. I chucked the starter's arbor shaft in the drill press (low speed) and cleaned the commutator bars with a wide/fine file, then some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. True'd the commutators up like new. A guy could use a regular drill for this too. My starter's bendix (the one way nose-gear), the internal starter-reduction-gears and shaft bearings were in real good condition so I just cleaned and applied a little grease to them and re-used. Works great. This was about 4 years ago, on mine. If the starter bendix gear had been worn on mine I would have replaced it, but I've had a few brand new ones fail, so if the original is still good, I'd stick with it. They could last forever. I've rebuilt several starters and alternators. Easy job, fun proj and they last. There are several how-to videos to, and how to check resistance and components.

If you're not into rebuilding, just go to Autozone or Oreilly's. You can get them for $50-$75. The reason is ..is because usually only the 2 main items which need replacing. Maybe the bushings too. Like I say, it's a real common starter. It's a good, simple design too. Or spring for a brand new Mitsubishi if you aren't concerned about $$ and don't want to mess with it again.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/124569715169

Last edited by Jeepwalker; Nov 19, 2022 at 11:45 AM.
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