tobtech

I have had intermittent lock and window problems for a while on my 98 Cherokee so I thought I would dig into it today. Unlike the common Jeep problem with wires splitting in the door jams, I don't have this problem. The wires are all perfect and I have tested continuity between the door switch plug and the kick panel plug. The lockout switch is also bad but this problem is unrelated to that. My driver's door and right rear door are the only 2 doors that work and those 2 windows work like they are supposed to. The left rear and right front are dead from the driver's switch and from their respective switches. The door locks are intermittent. They usually work on cold days and the passenger side module always clicks when the switch is operated.

I am thinking it is one of the switch/modules. I am trying to take it apart but I am not having much luck getting it open. Anyone taken them apart? I found one thread showing the inside of the switch but no info on how they come apart. I have the 6 screws out and the clips loose. It looks like the tops of the switches need to come off but I don't want to break it.

Any thoughts on the overall issue? Do you think the intermittent locks are a switch problem as well or possibly a ground issue?

Thanks

BlueRidgeMark

I don't think those switches are serviceable, if it's the same a '97. Mine's a 97, and while I haven't tried to take them apart, I looked them over the other day and they didn't look like anything that could be taken apart and fixed.


Before you go there, though, check the grounds, and also check for connectors under the carpet.

tobtech

I didn't get any response so I will go ahead and post what I found it anyone else has similar problems that are not related to broken wires.

The problem with the windows was low voltage in the switches. I cleaned the switches and resoldered the pins from the connector to the circuit board and that fixed the problem.

The problem with the door locks is the connection between the relays (in the passenger door switch) and the circuit board. The problem is the connections are between the bottom of the case and the board so in order to access it, I would have had to desolder every connector pin. I am good at soldering but not at removing solder and I dont have the correct tools to do it so to solve the problem I bypassed the relay on the circuit board and wired one outside the switch. Lock was the only one not working so I only needed one relay. If unlock fails in the future, I will just add a second relay.

tobtech

Thanks for the reply Mark. I forgot to mention the switches in my solution. I don't think they are supposed to be serviceable, however, I was able to get them apart. The black caps on the switches came off with a little force and then I was able to get inside. There is not much serviceable on the top of the board but I was able to clean the switch contacts and check the pins from the connectors that protrude through the board. The problem is you cannot get to the backside of the board, which is where my lock problem was.

HappyTrails

I was having similar switch problem with another Chrysler from same era using similar switch module. I did not have any luck trying to disassemble and service. Been keeping my eye open for a replacement in the yards. Those circuit board switches just don't last in my opinion.

BlueRidgeMark

Ah, the old brute force method! Hey, if it works, it works! :beer:

Good to know.

DieselDaze

You can use a solder sucker or think (baby snot sucker) or buy some braided wire (or solder sucker) from radio shack like $2... use your solder iron to heat it liquid then suck it up in a solid shot, personally I like the sucker opposed to the braid...

I have some lock issues in the back myself, everything else works but the locks, you just hear them actuate but don't lock....