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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
You can re-do the input shaft seal ....install new seals from a kit. But I wouldn't try it on the vehicle. It should be done on a bench. First off ....are you sure the leak it's not a hose shooting a micro-stream out of the high-pressure line onto the shaft? I've seen that happen. Sometimes they can get a pinhole and shoot a stream out that's so thin it's almost hard to see.
If it's truly leaking from the top seal of the box, and funds permit, you might just want to buy a rebuilt box. I don't know your skill level and you could be getting into a nest that isn't worth it. For one, when you remove the top cover of the steering box to replace the seal, you're really removing the adjuster plug (nut) [see diagram below] which is used to adjust the steering box pre-load. Technically, the correct way to adjust the steering box is to set loosen the top adjuster screw and tighten the adjusting plug which is setting the PRELOAD to specs. THEN and only then do you set the upper adjusting screw. The pre-load is the resistance on the shaft as it turns freely (no steering linkages hooked up and top adj screw loose). If you don't get the pre-load right, you can't adjust the top screw correctly. Because the adjustment of the top screw is a certain amt of inch lbs wile rotating the shaft while traveling over-center ...the center of the box position. You can't effectively adjust these things in the vehicle with it hooked to steering linkages or the intermediate shaft hooked up. Therefore, you might as well have someone remove the steering box for you.
But on top of that, by the time you buy a kit, or even a seal, and go through the extra work, remove it from the vehicle to adjust ...and given that you probably don't have an in/lbs wrench, and the miles on your vehicle, I think you're better off getting a replacement that you know will be good and adjusted 'right'. Also *IF* the leak IS the upper seal, the root cause could be a failed bearing that has torn the seal up inside and then you have more work to clean up that mess. Those upper bearings do fail. I'm all for helping save money, but given all these things I think you'd be further ahead to bite the bullet and get a rebuilt steering box. It'll be less work by the time you're done than one you may not have adjusted properly. But check your hose for leaks first.
The diagram below shows where the top seal resides in the adjuster plug. Note: this drawing is for an earlier year, but AFAIK they're the same for yours.
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 06-18-2019 at 10:09 PM.
Thank you Jeepwalker. It’s definitely not a hose. It’s coming right out of the top seal. After watching that video I can assure you that my skill set is not at the level to take on a rebuild like that! I am going to go with my first gut instinct and research some reman boxes (probably an A/C Delco, fits my budget) and call it good!
These days prices of reman steering boxes have become inexpensive enough that I myself don't really mess with rebuilding them either unless a reman isn't avail or price is really high. It takes a lot of time to clean, disassemble and reassemble ....and the potential of needing to replace a part that isn't included in the standard kit, there's hardly any savings.
If you DO install a replacement gear, please suck the crud out of the bottom of your steering pump with a suction gun, maybe get a magnet and see if there are shavings down there you can pick out. Then flush your pump and lines with fresh fluid BEFORE installing the steering gear and bleed out the system before starting the vehicle. (put on jackstands and turn wheels back/fourth).
Double-check the state of the intermediate shaft and any flexible couplers. Just a micro-amount of play in that intermediate shaft can translate into significant travel at the steering wheel. What I do is hook a large vice grips to the bottom spline and tightly strap the vice grip to the steering box or frame, with a ratchet strap or tight bungee (whatever you have that'll hold it 'tight'). Then wiggle the steering wheel. If you feel play track it down and resolve. Those little u-joints in the intermediate shaft don't live forever, especially when guys CRANK on the steering wheel when the vehicle is not running. That puts a lot of strain on steering components (avoid doing that unless vehicle is running). Lower column bearings can wear too. All those things are worth checking as is the drag link. Probably before you buy all the parts you'll need. When you get done you could potentially have nice and tight (leak free) steering!
Best of luck!!
Last edited by Jeepwalker; 06-19-2019 at 10:27 AM.
Again, be sure to check the other steering parts and suck the 'sludge' out of your old reservior ..and bleed in new fluid (youtube has directions on this). In other words, do everything by the book and don't cut corners like 80% of the other jeepers do (and then they come back to the newsgroup ....and cry-baby to everyone how they got screwed!!!) Ha ha!!
Will do Jeepwalker! It will take me some time as it’s in the 100+ mark here in California and I don’t do well with heat. Usually try to get work done in at 6am to 11am before the heat hits me. I will definitely update. Can’t wait until winter it’s so much easier considering my situation.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Originally Posted by 89build66
Yes Jeepwalker that is what I meant. Thank you. I welcome any correction in the terminology for parts please. I’m new to the XJ scene and this project started out as therapy for my Parkinson’s disease. It beats paying a physical therapist to help work with my hands and this project has done wonders for me and having fun at the same time! It probably takes me five times longer to do things that you guys can do in a short time, including typing lol!
I’m getting ready to install my new steering gear box on my 89 xj. I had a surprisingly easy removal of the pitman arm and moved on to removing the steering shaft. After using some WD40 into the section that telescopes I was just barely able to move it enough with a pry bar to get the u-joint off of the spline of the gear box. Now I am unable to get the shaft to extend back. Any ideas? I’ve read a thread that’s stated if the steering shaft seizes within itself it’s time to replace it. I would really like to save some money and save it if possible. I’m also a bit worried about pushing and tugging on it to much and damage something in the steering column. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!
My old gear box doesn’t have this stud piece like on the new one (see pic). Will this cause me any problems? Parts guy says no, but want to be sure from xj owners. Not sure if it will hit the little u-joints on the shaft ( if I ever get it to expand again!) please help!
Got my new steering gear box in and it’s doing its job. Very smooth. I ended up purchasing a remanufactured box from Orielly’s for $118.00 with a lifetime warranty. The stud piece on the end of the reman that wasn’t on my original didn’t cause any problems. Also I ended up removing the steering shaft and heating it to melt some sort of factory glue that was preventing it from collapsing. Cleaned it up and greasers it well. Thanks to everyone for your input!
It was probably set in poly from the factory ...and not supposed to collapse (except in the case of a severe accident). The plastic will 'snap' and allow movement. You probably damaged it by heating it up, I hate to say, but if it's still tight.. Why didn't you just loosen the steering column bolts and slide it back?
But now that you have the new box on it, you can do the new steering box a big favor by not cranking on the steering wheel unless the engine is actually running (using the 'power assist').
06-18-2019, 09:52 PM
