Power locks, now with half the normal power!
#1
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Year: 1992
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Power locks, now with half the normal power!
My door locks are somewhat vexing me at the moment, and I've been looking through here for ideas on what could be wrong, but I'm coming up goose eggs.
Basically, what's happening is that my left rear door lock won't unlock or lock when the switch is pressed. (Come to think of it, I've only checked from the Driver's door.) What happens is that the switch moves, but it doesn't move enough to lock or unlock. To lock the door manually, you have to push the lock/unlock rocker a bit deeper than the rest of the doors, it's tough to move as well.
I have the factory service manual, but it doesn't show the removal of the switch very well, and it doesn't give anything much past removal and replacement info. Other than R&R, can this be repaired? Could this be a lack of power getting to the door switch? Or could it be time for taking it apart and cleaning it?
Any suggestions would help. One idea I had was buying a new switch (I'm going to replace all window/lock switches), and doing some research to see if there was a way to prevent any loss of voltage between the driver's door switch and the rest of the set.
What should I look into?
Basically, what's happening is that my left rear door lock won't unlock or lock when the switch is pressed. (Come to think of it, I've only checked from the Driver's door.) What happens is that the switch moves, but it doesn't move enough to lock or unlock. To lock the door manually, you have to push the lock/unlock rocker a bit deeper than the rest of the doors, it's tough to move as well.
I have the factory service manual, but it doesn't show the removal of the switch very well, and it doesn't give anything much past removal and replacement info. Other than R&R, can this be repaired? Could this be a lack of power getting to the door switch? Or could it be time for taking it apart and cleaning it?
Any suggestions would help. One idea I had was buying a new switch (I'm going to replace all window/lock switches), and doing some research to see if there was a way to prevent any loss of voltage between the driver's door switch and the rest of the set.
What should I look into?
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
I just got my 96 and my L/R door lock does the same thing. I'm not too concerned with it. I just hold pressure the unlock button on the driver's door and reach back there and give the rear lock button some slight unlock pressure. I can live with that it’s no big deal. I just don’t feel like taking it apart and possibly creating more problems with it.
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
once you take it apart, its not hard to put back.. it just needs a little lube!! lube it up, and make sure when you do you have the window up!!
#4
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My door locks are somewhat vexing me at the moment, and I've been looking through here for ideas on what could be wrong, but I'm coming up goose eggs.
Basically, what's happening is that my left rear door lock won't unlock or lock when the switch is pressed. (Come to think of it, I've only checked from the Driver's door.) What happens is that the switch moves, but it doesn't move enough to lock or unlock. To lock the door manually, you have to push the lock/unlock rocker a bit deeper than the rest of the doors, it's tough to move as well.
I have the factory service manual, but it doesn't show the removal of the switch very well, and it doesn't give anything much past removal and replacement info. Other than R&R, can this be repaired? Could this be a lack of power getting to the door switch? Or could it be time for taking it apart and cleaning it?
Any suggestions would help. One idea I had was buying a new switch (I'm going to replace all window/lock switches), and doing some research to see if there was a way to prevent any loss of voltage between the driver's door switch and the rest of the set.
What should I look into?
Basically, what's happening is that my left rear door lock won't unlock or lock when the switch is pressed. (Come to think of it, I've only checked from the Driver's door.) What happens is that the switch moves, but it doesn't move enough to lock or unlock. To lock the door manually, you have to push the lock/unlock rocker a bit deeper than the rest of the doors, it's tough to move as well.
I have the factory service manual, but it doesn't show the removal of the switch very well, and it doesn't give anything much past removal and replacement info. Other than R&R, can this be repaired? Could this be a lack of power getting to the door switch? Or could it be time for taking it apart and cleaning it?
Any suggestions would help. One idea I had was buying a new switch (I'm going to replace all window/lock switches), and doing some research to see if there was a way to prevent any loss of voltage between the driver's door switch and the rest of the set.
What should I look into?
#6
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The same here. RR door lock. I just havent popped off the panel and lubed it up. Ill be using Lubriplate or some other lithium grease on it this time instead of wd40. Oil works good, but doesnt last. It is agravating mostly because my 8 yr old doesnt quite have the finger strength yet to push it open. Gotta add that to my ever growing list......
#7
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L HO
Well, the windows aren't working, so they're up... but just for S&G, why does it matter?
It's looking like R&R is going to be the quickest choice. I know, I know, all jeeps do it, I just want my jeep to not do it.
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#8
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Year: 1992
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any suggestions to good inexpensive sources of new parts?
I found one place: moparpartsamerica.com that has good numbers, but they don't get back to calls or emails it seems.
I found one place: moparpartsamerica.com that has good numbers, but they don't get back to calls or emails it seems.
#9
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Year: 1992
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I did a little tinkering today, and found that the lock is not being moved by the switch at all.
I've read that there is a 2V drop at each switch... would there be anything I can add to the wiring to restore the lost volts? Would it be something that would even matter?
I've read that there is a 2V drop at each switch... would there be anything I can add to the wiring to restore the lost volts? Would it be something that would even matter?
#10
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had this problem
and it is old oil on the locks the colder it is the worse it get
the problem is not at the **** part
it is at the latch
you need to remove the door panel that involves removing the door handle and switch Bessel
and then I used some break cleaner and sprayed the lock mechanism
that got the old gunky grease and oil off then hit it with a little WD40
and it is old oil on the locks the colder it is the worse it get
the problem is not at the **** part
it is at the latch
you need to remove the door panel that involves removing the door handle and switch Bessel
and then I used some break cleaner and sprayed the lock mechanism
that got the old gunky grease and oil off then hit it with a little WD40
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
I had this problem
and it is old oil on the locks the colder it is the worse it get
the problem is not at the **** part
it is at the latch
you need to remove the door panel that involves removing the door handle and switch Bessel
and then I used some break cleaner and sprayed the lock mechanism
that got the old gunky grease and oil off then hit it with a little WD40
and it is old oil on the locks the colder it is the worse it get
the problem is not at the **** part
it is at the latch
you need to remove the door panel that involves removing the door handle and switch Bessel
and then I used some break cleaner and sprayed the lock mechanism
that got the old gunky grease and oil off then hit it with a little WD40
Last edited by Mr2Jeep; 02-01-2009 at 07:38 AM.
#12
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.7L stroker with 99+ intake
Or your locks are like mine and just worn out the brushes in the motors do wear out, I only have one that works right now and it is my tailgate. Have to push the lock/unlock button about 10 times to unlock the passenger front door, the others will open during that time but the drivers door will not lock at all.
#13
i had the same problem all the way around, pulled out the little rubber plugs that are in the door jam and shot 1/4 can of wd40 in the door. all works now perfectly give it a try before you pull the door apart.
#14
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Year: 1992
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Does anyone have any suggestions of places to check online for good parts prices?
#15
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Year: 96
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db, both of my passenger side doors (left side here in the UK) suddenly developed exactly the symptoms you describe in our unusually cold weather, i.e. you could hear the solenoids working, but the rocker switches only go half way unlocked.
Looking for some tips, I stumbled on this forum (and joined up!). So I thought I should report that I pulled the door panels off today and squirted anything that moved with some spray on grease. Job done - only took half an hour to do both mechanisms, and they work great now.
Hope your solution is as cheap!
Oh, I found this workshop manual chapter, which has test procedures, and a handy diagram of the door panel screws, not that they're difficult to find:
http://www.thailandoffroad.com/jeep/...000/exj_8p.pdf
Looking for some tips, I stumbled on this forum (and joined up!). So I thought I should report that I pulled the door panels off today and squirted anything that moved with some spray on grease. Job done - only took half an hour to do both mechanisms, and they work great now.
Hope your solution is as cheap!
Oh, I found this workshop manual chapter, which has test procedures, and a handy diagram of the door panel screws, not that they're difficult to find:
http://www.thailandoffroad.com/jeep/...000/exj_8p.pdf
Last edited by Windowlicker; 02-06-2009 at 09:38 AM.