Power locks?
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 66
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From: Twig, MN
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 91 larado, and the power door locks don't work, there is clicking from under the dash when you hit the switch but no sounds from the doors. Where's the best place to start looking? It has keyless entry which I'd like to use. The windows work but only from the drivers door. Is the fix for that the same as the 97 & newer Cherokees?
Hey, if I find a related post, I'll paste it here. Otherwise, there are two places you need to check out before you do anything.
1: Remote lock receiver.
This is located on the roof of the car, inside, near the windshield. It is a plastic fitting with a black pastic ball hanging from the bottom.
1. Remove the two screws and slip the fitting from its mount. There is a green circuit board with a wiring harness plugged into it.
2. Inspect the board and harness for water entry. If your XJ is equipped with a car phone antenna, water may have leaked into the roof and shorted this harness. This results in shorting the entire circuit controlling constant 12v power applications like the radio memory, door locks, dome lights, etc.
3. If it is shorted and burned, you can try to find a new circuit board and harness from a salvage yard, about $20.
2: Driver's Side Wire Harness On Floor Pan
I have found just one post relating to this, and I suspect it is more common than anyone thinks. There is a wiring bundle that runs from the inside fuse panel by the kickplate, down to the floor, UNDER THE DRIVER'S FEET, then forward and up under the dash and then running over to the passenger's side.
1. Remove the kick panel to expose the various harnesses. Pull back the carpet carefully as far as possible. You may wish to remove the plastic sill panel next to the seat to faciliate this.
2. Next remove the padding underneath the carpet. At this time you should find that a wiring harness follows the path described above. Mine had moisture, mold, rust, and the entire bundle had disintegrate into a mess of silver wire, no longer separated. This causes shorting and dysfunction.
If you find either of these issues, and want some tips for fixing them, post or write back and I can relate my experience. Good Luck!
1: Remote lock receiver.
This is located on the roof of the car, inside, near the windshield. It is a plastic fitting with a black pastic ball hanging from the bottom.
1. Remove the two screws and slip the fitting from its mount. There is a green circuit board with a wiring harness plugged into it.
2. Inspect the board and harness for water entry. If your XJ is equipped with a car phone antenna, water may have leaked into the roof and shorted this harness. This results in shorting the entire circuit controlling constant 12v power applications like the radio memory, door locks, dome lights, etc.
3. If it is shorted and burned, you can try to find a new circuit board and harness from a salvage yard, about $20.
2: Driver's Side Wire Harness On Floor Pan
I have found just one post relating to this, and I suspect it is more common than anyone thinks. There is a wiring bundle that runs from the inside fuse panel by the kickplate, down to the floor, UNDER THE DRIVER'S FEET, then forward and up under the dash and then running over to the passenger's side.
1. Remove the kick panel to expose the various harnesses. Pull back the carpet carefully as far as possible. You may wish to remove the plastic sill panel next to the seat to faciliate this.
2. Next remove the padding underneath the carpet. At this time you should find that a wiring harness follows the path described above. Mine had moisture, mold, rust, and the entire bundle had disintegrate into a mess of silver wire, no longer separated. This causes shorting and dysfunction.
If you find either of these issues, and want some tips for fixing them, post or write back and I can relate my experience. Good Luck!
Probably not your problem but...
On mine, the PO replaced the window regulator and wasn't very careful with the locking linkage (power door locks). They managed to bend the lock linkage enough that there was so much resistance the power locks couldn't overcome the force. This is the metal bar that runs from the lock-unluck button by the inside handle, down to the door latch mechanism inside the door. I tried bending it back, but didn't know what it looked like originally so I couldn't fix it.
For now I have the lock linkage disconnected for that door, and the solenoid still locks the door with the power door locks. This summer I'll go to a junk yard and get a new lock linkage bar for the passenger side and it'll be as good as new.
On mine, the PO replaced the window regulator and wasn't very careful with the locking linkage (power door locks). They managed to bend the lock linkage enough that there was so much resistance the power locks couldn't overcome the force. This is the metal bar that runs from the lock-unluck button by the inside handle, down to the door latch mechanism inside the door. I tried bending it back, but didn't know what it looked like originally so I couldn't fix it.
For now I have the lock linkage disconnected for that door, and the solenoid still locks the door with the power door locks. This summer I'll go to a junk yard and get a new lock linkage bar for the passenger side and it'll be as good as new.
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