Plus you wouldn't need to take hood off for room.

Nother tip, might have found on here, don't recall. IF you are useing new head bolts, cut heads off two and cut slot in end for screwdriver for removing them, use for "alignment dowels" during assembly.

Not all of my brain survived the 70's, so I don't recall exactly where I placed the dowels, but IIRC, my first choice wasn't good. Either couldn't get head on or couldn't get dowels out.

If you plan on reusing bolts, just find some long enough at hardware or such.

 

I'm going to do new hardware for the head. no reason to mess that up. The price of new hardware is nothing compared to snapping one when re-torquing.

I know I'll obviously need the head gasket and bolts, and I'm planning on replacing the valve cover gasket as well. What other gaskets/parts will I need to/should I replace during this heart surgery?

 

I used a Felpro head gasket set, comes with head, valve cover, intake/exhaust and O-rings for injectors. Might have come with thermo too, ah the 70's again. Used felpro bolts also, about $30 for bolts. I'll see if I can find something about dowels, or someone might chime in.

 

https://www.google.com/search?site=w....0.GdWAp9iej2g

Lists a couple vids also.

I used some masking tape and shapie to lable everything as I dissassembled. IMO, manifold bolts sucked the most, hard to get at, extensions and u-joit adapters. Soak ex studs with PB before you even start. If it were me I would do a coolant clean then flush before tearing it apart. Maybe even chunk of hose and double barb fitting so you can reverse flow heater core.

JMHO, you results may, and will vary.

 

Man, this couldn't have waited till it was warm out and I could use the garden hose

I'll flush the heater core out again. Hopefully I can get all the gunk and garbage out fairly easily. My last coolant flush was a nightmare in the driveway covered in snow.

 

Rear bolt with stud for ground is PIA to get out and install torque. One bolt in front requires different torque and maybe thread sealer IIRC, think I used Permatex #2.

 

I have a digital copy of the FSM and a hard copy of the Haynes, so hopefully I can read well when assembly time comes. I watched a video and the guy had to remove and replace the head with that rear stud in the head still.

 

I feel for ya brother. So it junked up that quickly since the flush?

I THINK you don't want a dowel to far back. And seems that the bolt with stud has to be part way in head before you set head back in.

 

Yeah. I flushed rusty coolant out a week after I bought it, but figured since they hadn't really driven the jeep much the last two years, that some rust was expected. The coolant didn't smell burnt at all. Either the gasket was blown and they knew it, or I just happen to be the owner when the gasket went. Honestly though, at 190k if its the original, I'm impressed.

 

Sooooooo.... I rented a block tester and bought some fluid to check the coolant. Did the test three times with the jeep running at 197 constant and it never turned from blue. I sat with my face in the exhaust and it smells rich, but nothing sweet. I think the issue is all of the sediment in my cooling system. I'm going to try to do another full flush and maybe just replace the radiator, I think it's weeping. My other thought is that my heater core has a slight leak. I'm not seeing any wetness on the carpet and no excessive condensation on the windows. I will probably be doing a valve cover gasket soon along with cap and rotor and a trans flush. Back to the think tank for this **** poor gas milage...

 

I just picked a a 2000 Cherokee Sport and had a full tune up done on it. but I filled up this morning and now I'm at about a half tank and only drove 90 miles if that city and Hwy. So I'm hoping I can get some information on here on what might be causing it to use so much fuel or if it is. this is my first one so I'm not sure what it should be getting. can someone give me some insite. also it has about 208,000 miles on it. with new plugs and all and new o2 sensors new tail pipe some front end work. tires are over sized as well.

 

I quickly came to realise that with my first XJ, and all the info I've found here and elsewhere, these older Jeeps don't sip fuel from a thimble.... they chuck it straight from the carton without using a glass. There's a reason that it's also a common phrase to here when referring to your Jeep..." When you love your "girl" but she has a drinking problem".
I've got kind of a double whammy right now... I'm above 7,000 ft, AND having to run that same crap winter blend that everyone else here has to right now. When they switch it back over for summer, I'll test mine a bit more.
One other thing that is definitely NOT working in your favour is the over-sized tires.... that'll suck fuel no matter if you have anything else wrong or not.

 

Check the vacuum lines connecting to the intake manifold. A while back I found that although mine looked OK, they disintegrated when I touched them. Replacing those vacuum lines made the engine run better and it used a lot less gas after that. I can now go over 300 miles on a tank.

 

What about a crack in the exhaust manifold, I think it throws off the o2 sensors.