So should I Worry about replacing u joints?? Or just check tcase
Little confused take both driveshafts out and trun the tcase shaft to see if it's sloppy

 

Please help I would like to fix this today

 

I don't see the problem having yet been verified.
Are your axle and driveshaft universals loose, sloppy, and a lot of play? (Youve got 3 universals and a ball socket just on the front driveshaft) If they are tight then leave the universals alone (lube em if grease fittings are there, then move on, some universals are not equipped with grease fittings, those will fail at some time in future).
I believe you mentioned replacing a broken shift fork on the front axle disconnect. Didn't break again did it? The vac pods can become problematic, check to see if any of the vac lines are cut or popped off the termination plugs, I've had them pop off before. There are threads here on cross drilling the shift fork and putting a bolt with nyloc nut thru to hold the fork engaged. I use the posiloc cable system in place of the original failed vac.
Without assured and positive retention of the coupling spline collar inside the disconnect pod there can definately be a popping and jumping as the collar is not making full engagement.
The TCase chain will wear. Eventually it will jump teeth on the internal sprockets. Not totally necessary for a full TCase bearing service if you haven't offroaded heavily. Perhaps just the chain replacement. Can be done with TCase in place and only pulling back section of the case. Check for chain condition thru the drain plug (30mm socket) on the back case, is the chain really sloppy?? Refill the TCase with the upper fill plug Dextron Trans fluid.
Has there been a confirmed determination of the defect component?

 

Ok so I work at a shop and I put my jeep on the lift check the axles and the front spins freely (not in 4wd) pushed the front axle up and down side to side moved less then 1/8 of an inch (rough guess) I don't think my u joints are bad
I did grease all my grease points and went to lunch to see if it still pops and yes it does
When I went to lunch I had it in 4wd high and on ice I can see my driver side front tire spinning (slipping on ice) so I don't think that my shift fork it's broke again
Also when I had it on the lift I traced vac line from the CAD to the t/c then up the fire wall on passenger side everything looks to be in good shape
One thing I saw was a blue vac line in the motor Compartment with a black round thing on the end of it tryed looking around an they say it's a vent tube??

 

And also because I work at a shop my Christmas bonus was getting all boxes changed
T/c was black and drain plug has a magnet and there was some shaving on it not a lot bt enough to notice and wonder?

 

To check the axle shaft u-joints:

Lift & support vehicle.
Turn front wheels to full lock, rotate wheel & see if the joint/axle jumps up & down. Do the same with the other side. You may also notice an excessive amount of rust around the u-joint caps from what used to be the needle bearings.

 

How to I check drive line u joints?

 

Disconnect driveshaft from the yoke & give it a twist.

 

On the front diff or on the t/c side
When I twist what do I look for slop in the u joint right?

 

Either
Yes, if it's real bad you could just grab the driveshaft & it will move up and down.

 

Put it in the lift again front drive shaft move so I want to replace the u joint anyways what else could be it if this don't fix it

 

So I went to replace the 3 u joints in the front drive shaft and I have a dubble u joint on my t/c side the middle yoke thing is missing the rollers on the inside so I need to replace that b4 I can put it back together

 

Got that part on order will be here tomarrow morning between 9 and 1030
Anyone got any tips on how to replace this and the other u joints it was a complete ***** to get out!

 

Also I pulled my front driveshaft out
When I left work (d/s still out) I put it into 4wd high and drove to the part store, there was NO popping noise!
So that mean it's not in my t/c right??
It should be in the front d/s or the front diff it self right??

 

So I'm pretty sure I f'ed up
When I took the front d/s out I started to take out the c clips and the started to pull the u joints out got the first one that connects to the t/c yoke and then took out the centering ball thingy and the double Carden came off also
Not sure what way the double Carden goes on does it matter?
Should I get the u joints put in and then balanced the d/s??
I don't have the deepest pockets right now so any money save is better!!!