Is it the heater core you are suggesting I flush, flush, flush? This is new to me!

 

Flush the heater core after the hoses have been disconnected at the t-stat cover and water pump, with a garden hose. Flush the head/block after the t-stat and water pump have been removed by sticking the garden hose in the t-stat hole in the head....water/crud will be flushed out the water pump hole in the block.

 

One thing that you don't have on your list is a 16lbs. radiator cap. Personally I wouldn't buy the 50/50 premixed antifreeze. Why pay so much for half water. I don't know how they price the stuff where you live but where I live the 50/50 mix cost more then the straight antifreeze.

 

Did anyone mention/suggest eliminating/deleting the pesky heater control valve?

 

Radiator cap for sure. Also agree with avoiding 50/50. Waste of money.

Make sure you remove the overflow bottle and wash it out real good crud likes to settle at the bottom.

 

Making my rounds now. Picked everything up. The cap at advance is 13 lbs with a max of 16. Right on?

 

The 16lbs is what is recommended for the 4.0.

 

comanche1987 mentioned it in his post but it can't hurt to mention it again.

"Also remove this and run heater hoses from the heater core to the water pump inlet tube/ thermostat housing. These heater valves are junk."

 

BTW, If you plan on changing the heater hoses wich you should just get some bulk hose. One is 5/8" and the other is 3/4". Especially if you remove the heater control valve which isn't needed and like others have said it's garbage and will more then likely it will start leaking when messing with the hoses. The manufacturer stopped installing them I think 95 or 96. By the looks of it you are doing the cooling system up grade the right way by replace everything all at once. Once you get it all back together DO NOT forget to burp the system or you can over heat it.

 

My '96 XJ was built in late in '96 and it HAD one.

When I eliminated mine I bought enough heater hose to relocate them from where they laid against the valve cover to the right fender. Figured it was no good reason to add more heat to an already hot motor.

 

Yeah, I'm wasn't 100% sure when they stop putting them on. I thought it was 95 or 96. Hell, I've been wrong before and I'm sure I'll be wrong again.

 

I don't know either. But I figure the HCV's worst nightmare (cruiser54) would know.

 

Update:

I have replaced everything. There was some delicious looking sludge in the reservoir.

Its time to reintroduce coolant and I've realized that I only bought one gallon of it. Get another? And then what?

Add coolant to radiator until it's topped, then start vehicle?

 

It may take a little more than 2 gals to fill the system. Fill the rad slowly to the top, leave the rad cap off, let the motor idle and keep the rad full. When the stat opens coolant/air will burp out of the rad. Install the new rad cap and drive/check for leaks. Check coolant level (MOTOR COLD) in both the rad and bottle for several days.....add coolant if needed.

 

Patience is your friend on the refill. Fill slowly allowing coolant to disperse through the system and air escape as you go.

Fill radiator with antifreeze, start engine, turn heater on high, watch coolant in radiator and add coolant as level drops. Watch for when coolant starts to overflow as thermostat opens. Put cap on and fill overflow bottle half full. Let system cool until you can open cap and add a bit of coolant if necessary. Keep an eye on system for several days and add coolant if necessary.

The '93 has an open system and requires no heroics to burp. Some will suggest that you jack up the front end or find a steep hill when filling but that is not necessary. Just watch as suggested and system will self-burp over a couple of heat/cool cycles.

Re 16# cap, I have never had a parts jockey give me a 16# cap when I asked for one for my '93, always 13#. I then ask for a 16# and they look up some other Cherokee model and produce the 16# cap.