As a quick check of the meter, if you touch the probes together they should read zero or close to zero. The black/tan wire should be the ground or touch the probe to the body itself since the solenoids are grounded to the transmission. The filter is just a mesh screen and typically doesn't need to be changed. The only time I've seen that screen with any buildup was a trans with disintegrating clutches that had obvious issues.

 

So I got the 3 new solenoids (and have the pan dropped). 2 of the 3 look identical, the third looks different. I know where that third one goes based on what’s on the trans now, but does it matter where I put the 2 identical ones amongst those other two spots? Or are those two interchangeable?

 

I assume they're interchangeable, but it's been a decade since I changed mine.

Just curious, did you have any issues separating the two halves of the dipstick tube when you dropped the pan? That's always a fun one.

 

Yup that was the worst part. Didn’t think it was gonna come out but after probably 20 minutes I got it

 

It helps if you alternatively curse at it and talk dirty to it.

 

Lol well I might have to try that now while I’m trying to put the pan back on. Can’t get the two tubes to sit fully together no matter what I do. Such a PITA.

 

Yes, two are identical and it's the third different one that is the t/c lockup.

 

If memory serves correct, I replaced the o-ring and greased it before I reassembled it. That seemed to help.

 

Is that O-ring replaceable? I thought it was fixed on. At the point now where I’m just trying to remove the entire dipstick and put the two together once it’s detached and then reinstall but would rather do what you said if it’s possible.

 

I think I just went to the hardware store and found something that worked.

 

But the one that comes on there from the factory is in fact removable?

 

Yes that o-ring is called out in the parts manual as p/n 53003977. I *think* it's a 3/8 ID x 7/16 OD x 1/16 ?

 

Thanks. Somehow was able to get the pan back on.

Another question, and one I’ve never been able to get a straight answer to: how should I be reading the dipstick? The way I interpret it is the bottom section (add, ok, max) are for when the fluid is cold. And then the measurement that’s way higher up on the stick labeled “M” and says max level when hot, is for when the fluid is hot. How do you guys read it? Or is that “M” up top insignificant and I should only look at the bottom part of the stick when the fluid is hot?

 

 

The automatic transmission fluid is supposed to be checked when hot (after driving 15-20 minutes) with the engine running and transmission in neutral (park also works on the AW4 since the pump runs in P as well). It's quite different than checking the engine oil. ATF expands when it's heated, and the transmission pump circulates a lot of it when running, so there's a lot less in the pan when it's running. Personally, I like to keep it just below that second hole near the bottom so there's some room for expansion when it gets hot in the summer.

FWIW, here's what's stamped on the dipstick on my '98. Note that the "M" you mentioned is all the way up by the handle on mine. If you ever had it read at the M on yours while hot and running, you'd be having some big problems.