One thing at a time, your compression issues are something else.

Your radiator COULD be a cause, yes. You had leaks there, so its just patching up stuff by adding leak stop products. Like my post #10, I say again: consider doing a good overhaul and get it out of the way. Unless you know the service history.

Overheating has potentially several causes, depending also in what situation you overheat (idle/highway etc). So there is not a final answer you should expect for whats causing the overheating in YOUR situation. Closest you will get it "more likely" or " less likely".
But in the end, the cooling system is not overly complicated and sometimes overheating can be even solved by something simple as a new radiator cap.

 

So I took the rad cap off and cranked it and water is flowing out. Which is why I was thinking headgasket.

 

Well I guess ill just keep checking stuff. Thanks for all the help you guys.

 

Does your heat work?

 

Why would that make you think headgasket?

Its not unusual for coolant to flow out, once pressure is put into the system. Its airbubbles coming up thats more of a worry.

 

Nope it doesnt. Air comes out but its not warm.

Thanks. Just more of a guess.

After I burped it its now idling at the line past 210. Not sure if I should worry about it or not.

 

Well, you had it overheating, so I'd say you need to know why.
Mine ran above midgauge (mine is Celsius) ever since it overheated once on the beach. Flushed radiator, refilled with new 50/50 coolant and replaced waterpump (had sepage from wheephole) and hoses: no change.
Replaced viscous fan clutch, although it appeared to be working fine (no overheating at idle or slow moving traffic) and replaced thermostat that appeared to be working fine too (upper radiator hose hot) and those last two replacements made the temp go back to the nodge before midscale it has always been.
Bottom line: things even might look like they're working fine, however can still be under par and all add up to the running warm to hot.

You know by now what I recommend you should do.

 

I am suprised nobody mentioned even verifying the gauge reading in the first place. Also, are these temps high while idling or also cruising? If just idle, is the e-fan coming on? Fan clutch working?

The basics people! Lol

 

FWIW: I verified temps in past with temp guns, thats all over the shop and never accurate. My OBDII Live Data reading is probably the most accurate but is depending on other factors like: is your temp sending unit actually good?.
OP never mentioned details over specific situation of overheating
Already suggested to do more field work
Fan clutch working doesnt mean a thing, I can say from own experience.
Basics are always good to check!
So is doing a search on this topic which is VERY common

 

A failed fan clutch will absolutely cause problems at low RPM slow movement and idling. Especially if the e-fan isn't working.

 

You are absolutely right, but thats not what I meant.
What I meant was, that in my case I kept saying to myself : fan clutch could not be the issue because is was working properly....however when I did finally replace it, the difference became clear...

 

Thank you all for all the help. I really do appreciate it.

I got it running at 210 for 20 minutes or so and I started to look around and the radiator had begun leaking again. So im going to try and get another one soon. Never wasting my money on stop leak again. Next time I get it to operating temp I will check the fan clutch just to make sure its good. Also, the E fan is coming on and working.

For now, im just tired of messing with it. Im going to park it for a week or 2 until I get another radiator and just work on my Comanche.

 

I would flush your coolant two or three times to get all the stop leak out when you get everything fixed.

 

Your heater core is plugged.

 

Cooling/HVAC issues aside, your engine is kaput.