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Overheating help needed for the last time

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by LCFRJEEP
If my heater core was gunked up wouldnt it affect my heat as well?? I currently have no issues with my heat.
no your heat would be fine because the core would still be hot

Last edited by RoyalXJ; Apr 7, 2010 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by djb383
If coolant temp is 210F, even a 195F t-stat will be virtually wide open and coolant will be flowing through the rad and engine at the the same speed.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm

195s open up later. coolant doesnt flow at the same speed w/ a thermostat as it does without. these are jeeps that run hard on the trails. they are not race cars that are constantly moving a high speed being cooled

Last edited by RoyalXJ; Apr 7, 2010 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #18  
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when the temp climbs towards the red does you electrif fan ever kick on? Another thing you secondary gauge, where do you have the sensor? Have you tried using a laser thermometer to verify the gauges?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
no your heat would be fine because the core would still be hot
How many threads do we see beginning late fall/early winter titled "No heat" or "My heater doesn't work" or something similar..........and the reason for no/little heat is usually a plugged/clogged heater core.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #20  
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I agree. A good chemical flush couldn't hurt especially after all the money spent already on new parts. That said, a flush will only work so well. Sometimes the heater core does have to be replaced.

Also, have you done a compression check to confirm that you haven't blown your head gasket (causing the overheating)?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by djb383
How many threads do we see beginning late fall/early winter titled "No heat" or "My heater doesn't work" or something similar..........and the reason for no/little heat is usually a plugged/clogged heater core.

true. i had a blockage problem last spring. heat worked great in winter. i replaced everything but the heater core. after that i still had the high temp problem so i had it flushed at a shop. they told me there was most likely a build up in my heater core. i explained to them the heat was just fine during the winter. they told me that my heat would still work with the issue
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
195s open up later.

........later than what? Every t-stat I've tested, and I always test before installing, is wide open within 10-15 degrees above it's open temp.


coolant doesn't flow at the same speed w/ a thermostat as it does without.

.......... but it still flows the same speed through BOTH the rad and block/head when the t-stat is open. You can't make it flow slow through the rad and fast through the block/head.


these are jeeps that run hard on the trails.

..........even more reason to have coolant flow to be as fast as possible.


they are not race cars that are constantly moving a high speed being cooled
.........ok, so nothing that applies to a race car can apply to a street car.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #23  
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i know these thing from experience. i played around with alot of different things when i had a cooling problem. i thought i knew it all but eventually i listened to the guys who had been messing jeeps all their lives from naxja. every bit of info i have taken from them has worked. you guys do what you want im gonna do what works.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:40 AM
  #24  
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i also say check the head gasket
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
i know these thing from experience. i played around with alot of different things when i had a cooling problem. i thought i knew it all but eventually i listened to the guys who had been messing jeeps all their lives from naxja. every bit of info i have taken from them has worked. you guys do what you want im gonna do what works.
The bottom line is, the faster coolant flows through both the rad and block and air flows through the rad, the more efficient the system and a t-stat is vital for a street driven vehicle. Regardless of any misconceptions/myths that may be posted elsewhere, the experts have proven that max coolant flow and max air flow are key to cooling system efficiency.

Why do they make HI-FLOW water pumps.........to increase water flow at LOW engine speeds. Why have electric fans become prominent......... to increase air flow at LOW engine speeds. At 70mph any water pump will move coolant rapidly through the cooling system and you don't need a rad fan at 70mph because there's plenty of air going through the rad. At 70mph belt driven fans are free wheeling and electric fans are off.

So, to say that coolant can flow too fast through the rad is just an old myth perpetuated on the Internet.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #26  
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ok then explain why when i put a lower thermostat in my temp increased and when i removed it totally my jeep would boil over. all this was on the trail, not in normal driving situations. this is exactly what everyone told me was gonna happen and low and behold it did.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
ok then explain why when i put a lower thermostat in my temp increased and when i removed it totally my jeep would boil over. all this was on the trail, not in normal driving situations. this is exactly what everyone told me was gonna happen and low and behold it did.
Umm... Air pocket?

Look, seriously; I don't want to get involved in this and it really should be taken someplace else. Another forum member is asking for assistance with a problem. Both of your opinions have been noted and I'm sure he'll try at least one of them. Hell, he may try both!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:52 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
ok then explain why when i put a lower thermostat in my temp increased and when i removed it totally my jeep would boil over. all this was on the trail, not in normal driving situations.
Inadequate coolant flow, inadequate air flow and probably several other areas in your cooling system are inadequate for the extreme conditions under which it was operating (on the trail).
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Inadequate coolant flow, inadequate air flow and probably several other areas in your cooling system are inadequate for the extreme conditions under which it was operating (on the trail).
no. i dont drive some broken down $1500 cherokee. everything is and was up to par.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by fishtaconc
when the temp climbs towards the red does you electrif fan ever kick on? Another thing you secondary gauge, where do you have the sensor? Have you tried using a laser thermometer to verify the gauges?

No, i have not heard the E-fan kick on which is why I installed the aftermarket gauge. I went to homedepot and purchased a galvanized "T" and screwed it into the port on the t-stat housing where the coolant temp sensor would go and on one end of the "T" I screwed the sensor in and the other end I screwed the sensor for the gauge in. Last fall, I used a laser gun and found out my original gauge was incorrect hence the new gauge. I did just recently replace my heater control valve and it seemed that my original gauge was reading correct. Now, it has started to get hot out in WV and my temps started to go crazy again.
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