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Overheating - but not when caps removed!

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:22 AM
  #16  
Chuck's Avatar
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Thats what Im thinking the problem is with mine - not sure though!

Is it necessary to remove radiator to get the H20 pump out? Can I do it by only removing the aux fan?
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #17  
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Thats what Im thinking the problem is with mine - not sure though!

Is it necessary to remove radiator to get the H20 pump out? Can I do it by only removing the aux fan?
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:46 AM
  #18  
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Come on guys, a pump is a pump, if it is turning and has no leaks it is fine.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 06:04 PM
  #19  
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You dont have to remove the radiator.. Even if the pump was leaking it shouldn't over heat that fast unless it was pouring out. Not likley. They usually leak more when turned off. Sounds like a head gasket. Any white smoke from tail pipe with cap on? I do think it is rare for a pump to turn and not pump.I've never seen it..

Last edited by Skater28; Dec 4, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for all the help!

It was the water pump. Upon removing the pump the Impeller actually stayed behind in the engine. The Impeller had erroded and became detached from the shaft.

The shaft was therefore turning but the Impeller was not - not pumping water!

So after replacing the T-stat, radiator and water pump it turns out it was the latter!
R4000 later! At least now I know that the cooling system is good for a while!

Thanks again for the help!
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #21  
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Congrats on getting it fixed. Cool that you posted up what the problem was as well.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 03:18 PM
  #22  
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120kph is much faster than 55mph its more like 77mph or so, unless you have shorter kilometers than over here
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Throwing money at this situation isn't going to solve the problem. Before replacing the water pump, pull off the main radiator hose going into it. Using a flashlight, see if you can see the fins moving when you spin the pulley by hand. If they spin, your pump works, and there's nothing more to it.

Next, FLUSH THE SYSTEM. Radiator, block, heater core- and make sure you flush them seperately. If you've replaced the t-stat and the water pump is operational, the next reasonable conclusion is that there's a blockage in the system and the only way to get rid of it is to flush it out.

Make sure you pull ALL the antifreeze plugs [also known as soft plugs- these are seperate from the drain plugs and there's one on each side of the block] from the block before flushing it. There's expandable rubber soft plugs you can buy for replacements that are easy to install. Make sure that you flush them all out until the water coming out is clear. You may also want to check the main radiator hoses for wear.

When you're done and have replaced the plugs in the block, fill the block from the t-stat housing before replacing it. Then fill the radiator. Burp the system however you wish and just keep an eye on your coolant level for the next few days. By the end of the first week after flushing you should be running normal coolant level.

If that doesn't fix the overheating, then you're losing coolant somewhere.

[Edit- okay, so you posted that you fixed it before I posted this. Good for you. ]
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