these are from today, my drive home from work, outside temperature 90 degrees and the drive was mostly stop and go traffic. I took these pictures after I got home. The secondary gauge is at the upper radiator hose and the dash gauge is from the engine block. For what it’s worth this was the highest it got and it didn’t go past this. Am i just expecting too much ? I am running the stock autozone one row radiator. I’ve read all the threads about radiators but it seems like mixed opinions. Maybe a slightly bigger two row radiator would make a big difference?

is it possible my AC compressor is going bad and causing that extra strain on the engine?

 

Algebraic429,
If that was with windows up and AC on I’d be pretty happy with that. As long as it’s not in the red. I’ll have to get a video of mine next time it happens. It only happens at idle and it is a very sudden climb (2 seconds at most) into that danger zone. Within about 30 seconds of driving again the temperature goes back down. I’ve already changed the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with oem parts. It’s nothing that prevents using the vehicle but still something that I don’t want to leave un repaired.

jksnevets

 

When I purchased my 96, I found the previous owner put in some sort of head gasket sealer and it caused a system nightmare. I did a flush and did the best I could to remove the sealer and the rust. I have had the xj for more than 15 years and I still chase the sealer and rust issues. I have used the Thermocure once but bought two bottles for down the road. The past year I have not put very many miles on since its mostly used for offroading. I bought it at 135k and it now has 162k. I am now driving it more for work about 500 miles per week. I live in AZ and I expect the temps to start raising quicker throughout the summer.
Problem is for me is that my gauge cluster is the dummy kind. I bought the non dummy kind but really wanted to get my mileage near the mileage that on the newer cluster. I have about 12k miles until I achieve that. I have raised the back of the hood to release those engine bay temps. I put in a 3 row aluminum radiator, new t-stat. The a/c fan kicks on when a/c is turned on, since I dont have a gauge I cannot tell if at 212 it kicks on.
Has anyone considered running an oil cooler for their oil system? I had a vw and ran full flow with the pump and kept my engine oil running cool under 200. I bought the adapter for the filter but it was some chinese amazon junk and never installed it. I planned on running it to the area where the air filter is because I ran my intake through the cowl and seems to be working well. I wanted to get it to an finned oil cooler with a fan. I am not sure if this would help with engine temps, but I know it would make the engine last longer.

 

I run an oil cooler on my VR6 track car, but nothing on the Cherokee. The highest oil temp I've seen in the Cherokee is 240°F after driving on soft sand for 8+ miles in the summer, and that reading was taken by hitting the oil filter with an IR temp gauge, so it could have been a few degrees higher internally. With 5w-40 full synthetic (Rotella T6), I wasn't worried. Are you using synthetic in your Cherokee?

I'd be more concerned with keeping the transmission cool, assuming you have an automatic. A stacked-plate transmission cooler can do wonders.

 

I run full synthetic, I do run an aftermarket trans cooler (hayden 678) and recently when attempting to tow a trailer up a long grade my trans temp reached 250 briefly before i pulled off. the trailer was maybe 2800-3500 pounds. The trans cooler was located behind my winch though and in between the two fans in front of the condenser. I just recently moved it over more to the passenger side so its out from behind the winch and directly in front of the mechanical fan so hopefully that helps. Im replacing my AC compressor this weekend and re checking the freon levels to get it dialed so well see if that helps with engine temps with AC on.

 

Were you using D or 3 on the transmission when this happened?

 

I initially tried 3 because i saw that people recommend towing with that but it was starting to run hot anyways so then i kept trying D or 3 and neither helped. It doesnt help im on 33's with sock gearing 3.55. i need a regear for sure.

 

Yeah, towing uphill on 33s with stock gearing will do it.

Aside from using a lower gear ratio, selecting 3 over D will also keep the torque converter locked up under most circumstances, which drastically reduces the heat going into the fluid. That's really important on those grades. Perhaps you were too heavy on the throttle to keep the TC locked, even in 3. With my setup (30s with 3.55 gears), the TC will stay locked in 3 at any speed over 65, even at WOT. But with 33s, that means it's harder to stay locked at highway speeds. It definitely makes sense to regear with that setup if you plan to continue towing.

 

I need to change my oil this weekend. Do you recommend synthetic? If so what weight?

I had to replace my trans with a used one from someone of FB. It was a '97 and the nose cone had to be changed and so did the wiring harness. I already installed a stacked-plate cooler in front of the mechanical fan. Since I replaced the trans, I wonder if it even worked for the one that got discarded. I am running 33's and stock gearing, 3.55 I think? I bought 4.56 gears and need to get them installed. Have you ever replaced your speedometer gear? Is it worth doing and where does it help?

 

I would never haul that heavy of weight with a cherokee. I guess because mine seems to do fine, there's always a problem when it's not used to being used that way.

 

I run Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic and have had good results, but there are other options out there. Synthetic handles heat and cold starts better than conventional, so you'd be nuts not to use synthetic. It's not the '80s any more.

Swapping speedometer gears is a piece of cake. You just need to know what size to get. Here's a guide.

 

Do you have any know-how on fixing running rich? When I let off the gas, it definitely gives that smell whether the window is open or not. I have read a little into this but is there an easy fix?

 

final update for awhile, I installed a champion two row radiator after doing another aggressive flush. I also installed a new aux electric fan. This is from today on my drive home as I pulled into my garage. 95 outside. With ac on max. Aftermarket gauge is in the upper radiator hose. Dash gauge at stock location on back of block. Just going to leave this set up for awhile I’m over trying to get Better temps with the AC on.
Thanks to everyone’s help.


such a drastic difference between the two locations. Makes sense that they moved the temp sensor location on later models

 

I don"t think an accurate speedo gear "helps" with anything except give you an accurate speed , especially on a 93. In later models it may effect tranny control somewhat but thats just a guess

 

I noticed coolant started dripping from the bellhousing so ive narrowed down to either the headgasket leaking externally off the back or the rear engine block freezeplug. The jeep also started running hot now with no ac at idle which it never did before so. Pretty bummed about either of these things really sucks after all the work ive done. Can a leaking freeze plug cause overheating at idle?