I've replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, mechanical fan clutch, flushed the block, new radiator, everything, and my temp still creeps to like 230 when I'm idling, driving at low speeds (under 20 mph) or sitting in stopped traffic. My e fan is wired to a switch in the cab which I keep on, at cruising speed the temp is 190. I can turn the heat on, and it runs at 180 TOPS, extremely cool. All parts I've replaced have been double checked and are working, coolant levels are fine. Only thing I'm not sure of is the heater core. All hoses are good under the hood, but I've never flushed the core itself or replaced it. Why does it only do said temp. creep if the heat is completely off and not letting it vent the extra heat? I'm stumped.

 

Replace the fan clutch on the mechanical fan.

 

I know your cooling system is different than my closed setup but mine did that, I replaced the overflow resivor and cap and fixed my problem

 

New fan clutch two weeks ago, sorry I didn't include that in post.

 

The shroud? Is the shroud fit properly? Seems that would matter more slow and stopped when you don't have other airflow. I don't think the heater core should matter.

 

Kinda puzzled why it drops 50*, down to 180? 230 seems hi, but 180 seems low, this time of year. Anyway to verify your gauge readings?

 

You could have a bunk sending unit, 230 down to 180 is a huge change and don't think it is possible for that much of a drop to happen so quickly.

 

"Kinda puzzled why it drops 50*, down to 180?"

Sounds like you have an issue with airflow. It's not dumping heat when you are not moving. Just a thought.

 

Temp sender was also replaced on the T-stat, and the one on the rear of the engine. I verified heat with a temp gun, It'll do the creep, get up to 232 if I'm just idling or in traffic, then turned the e fan on, opened heat fully on defrost, drove it one mile, and clocked it at 188. If I run my E fan and driv elike normal with no heat on, it usually stays like 200 at cruise speeds, but does that same damn creep.

 

Thats my thought exactly, I've replaced every piece associated with the cooling system, but the air isn't evacuating like it should when I'm at low speeds or idling. I'm stumped.

 

The efan doesn't come on 'til 232F???? It should be on at 218F coolant temp OR when a/c compressor is engaged. I'm still puzzled how temp can actually drop to 180????? What temp t-stat did u install?

 

A guy just posted the other day that his new clutch went bad right away, (thought it was water). I had one that would overheat without a shroud. (was not a Jeep).

My working clutch...cold, 65* will let the fan free spin less than 2 inches at the blade tip when I give it a good flick. My road climbs 1,500 feet to my house in 3 miles. I'll try to remember to check it hot when I get home. Don't know if there is any point in that but it's not exactly a tough task!

On another thread it was the 45th post before the guy mentioned he had no shroud!

 

I think it was well over 100 posts in another thread and the fact that the shroud was missing was never mentioned.

 

I hardwired the E-fan to a switch in the cab, I keep it on all the time. 180 AMC Jegs thermostat.

 

The older cherokees were known for running hot. Mine stays at 210 and will go up to about 220 while sitting. one of the best things that you can do is get rid of the clutch fan and install another e-fan. one out of an escort will fit in there, or summit racing has a complete dual e-fan set up for the cherokee.