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over heating help please

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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #16  
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From: walterboro south carolina
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
Radiator caps need to hold pressure. Failure to hold that pressure can result in overheating. A failing radiator cap will not always leak or lose coolant.

A replacement is about $5.00 They are often overlooked.

Replace it (or at least pressure test it) just to be SURE you are not chasing your tail.

Should be a 16 pound and get one without a lever/release. That lever is not needed and is just another point for potential failure in the future.
ok ill be sure to try that ill start with the easiest and cheapest things first and then go from there and thanks for all you ve guys help ill see what i can do and hopefully take care of this from moneys tight right now im hoping i wont have to buy a new radiator
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #17  
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Howdy scjeep!,

Just a suggestion...... seein as you do a lot of off road from what you are saying, it is very possible the vanes in your rad and condenser ar all plugged up with dried up crud and bugs and road gunk.....
this reduces the efficency of the rad and condenser. get a pressure washer and let the rad and condenser have it! you would be surprised.

Also, i agree with some other posts here with regard to how old the radiator is, if its original it probably has so much crap built up inside it.
only way to tell though is to take it out,,, and heft it. just so you know, a new radiator when u are holding it in your hands weighs next to nothing. While the old radiator when you heft it will weigh considerably more, meaning its blocked up somewheres.
the removal of your radiator is a not too long of a job, and if you want you could also pressure wash the vanes better with the rad iator out of the vehicle.

just my two cents and good luck with it!!!

cpnwrench

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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #18  
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From: walterboro south carolina
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Originally Posted by cpnwrench


Howdy scjeep!,

Just a suggestion...... seein as you do a lot of off road from what you are saying, it is very possible the vanes in your rad and condenser ar all plugged up with dried up crud and bugs and road gunk.....
this reduces the efficency of the rad and condenser. get a pressure washer and let the rad and condenser have it! you would be surprised.

Also, i agree with some other posts here with regard to how old the radiator is, if its original it probably has so much crap built up inside it.
only way to tell though is to take it out,,, and heft it. just so you know, a new radiator when u are holding it in your hands weighs next to nothing. While the old radiator when you heft it will weigh considerably more, meaning its blocked up somewheres.
the removal of your radiator is a not too long of a job, and if you want you could also pressure wash the vanes better with the rad iator out of the vehicle.

just my two cents and good luck with it!!!

cpnwrench

Yes I cleaned. My fins out they weren't. Too bad mostlys bugs bc I live down south but I am gonnaa take it out n see how bad its clogged the
If it is ill havE to buy a new
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #19  
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so ive tried it all and still doing the same thing guess a new radiator it is! ooo my wifes gonna kill me lol. anyone know of a website to get radiators at a "decent" price? anyone heard of good or bad things from drive wire they have on for 92 bucks csc is the brand of radiator
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by scjeep69
idk i have it wired to a switch when i crank it up i cut my fan on it turns good and seems to be working fine. if i dont keep it on it over heats bad but with it on it keeps it a lil cooler
you have the clutch fan wired to a switch ???????????
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #21  
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you have two fans on mechanical and one electric correct
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #22  
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #23  
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Remove 170* T stat and install 195* T stat.

Your problem is that the lower temp T stat is to low and staying open all the time. This is letting the coolant flow right threw the rad and back in to the block. It is not giving the coolant the time it needs in the rad to remove the heat it took out of the block.

Had this same problem my self with a 318 about 10 years back after parts guy gave me the wrong temp T stat. Replaced it with correct one and problem solved!
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
you have the clutch fan wired to a switch ???????????
I think he is saying that he wired the Electric fan to a switch so he can run it any time he wants.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #25  
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thats why i asked this question he was asked how the cluth fan was eariler and he answered with idk i have it wired with a switch ????
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
thats why i asked this question he was asked how the cluth fan was eariler and he answered with idk i have it wired with a switch ????
sorry bout that man yes i have two fans and i have the electric one to the switch my other fan is working so does that mean its fine or is there away to check it?
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Badmunky
Remove 170* T stat and install 195* T stat.

Your problem is that the lower temp T stat is to low and staying open all the time. This is letting the coolant flow right threw the rad and back in to the block. It is not giving the coolant the time it needs in the rad to remove the heat it took out of the block.

Had this same problem my self with a 318 about 10 years back after parts guy gave me the wrong temp T stat. Replaced it with correct one and problem solved!
so should i try this first? before i spend 100 on a radiator? the problem is this is my dd and i need this fixed and ive done this done that and still the problems not fixed im kidof getting aggervated with it lol do you think the t stat cld really be my problem?
the guy told me at advance if i lowered the t stat it wouldnt hurt it would just keep y temp a lil lower... im kindof stuck on what to do next... my radiator isnt leaking im not loosing fluilds and i just flushed it so it should be good right?
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 02:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by scjeep69
so should i try this first? before i spend 100 on a radiator? the problem is this is my dd and i need this fixed and ive done this done that and still the problems not fixed im kidof getting aggervated with it lol do you think the t stat cld really be my problem?
the guy told me at advance if i lowered the t stat it wouldnt hurt it would just keep y temp a lil lower... im kindof stuck on what to do next... my radiator isnt leaking im not loosing fluilds and i just flushed it so it should be good right?
i dont run a thermostat at all so if this would happen i would be over heating also
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by scjeep69
sorry bout that man yes i have two fans and i have the electric one to the switch my other fan is working so does that mean its fine or is there away to check it?
you have factory fan set up correct one turn with the motor and the other is electric it runs by switch and when you turn the ac /heat on correct
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #30  
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when does it over heat highway or stop and go traffic
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