It is a wierd problem. I read through the thread trying to make sense of it and thought something similar. To add... I don't know where the OP lives but maybe a nice hot day and then cooling through the night... over a couple days could've had an affect...?

 

It is possible to break the bolt head - even if he put double the torque on it and the bolt was defective. We've all broken bolts.

But the washer - bent like that at the same time? Unless the washer was made of pasta it would never happen.

TRY IT!

IT'S BULL!




n.

 

Well someone got their feelings hurt. Look buddy, I didn't ask for YOUR help so I won't be offended if you just stop talking. I'm telling the truth. The bolt snapped at some point between Tuesday night and yesterday afternoon. I said in one of my posts that I would check with a magnet when I get home tonight. The most likely scenario is that I over-tightened because I used anti-seize and still torqued to 109, which is probably more like 150+. And if you got hurt because I threw out your "no washer on the nut" theory and questioned your "bolt spin" theory then you really need to get thicker skin. There was no nut to put on there and your bolt-spin doesn't make any sense at all. Additionally, my reply to your post was polite because I do appreciate the input. I come here to ask questions, share experiences, learn, and hopefully help others. That's what a community does. Also, at NO point in my posts did I blame anyone else for the bolt snapping. I know who put the bolt on there, I know who torqued it down, I know who screwed up, ME! So take your flames elsewhere...

 

I didn't want to start a flame war here. I just wanted some advice from more experienced mechanics. I bought the bolts from a (formerly thought to be) trusted 'nuts and bolts' store in Chesapeake, Va. It's called A.M.S. (American Maintenance Suppliers), google it if you must. I bought all six bolts (M14 X 2 X 120mm), nuts, and washers for $35. After pricing these bolts last night and today I see that I got poor quality hardware. You get what you pay for.

I live in Chesapeake, Va. 70's/ low 80's during the day, high 30's/low 40's at night during this time of year.

 

Clearly the REAL issue here is that you failed to check for residual resonance resistance coming from the magnesium alloy housing of your turbo encabulator.

All friends here. If you think he's a troll, don't feed him. He did an awful lot of work to make-up a story . Based on that, I have no reason not to believe him.

I hear enough sniping from the wife. I come here to get away from that.

Again,

Hugs.....

 

Elexwiz,

I have no idea what the Haynes manual says. Here's the instructions from my '99 XJ FSM for replacement of the rear leaf spring. Note that the vehicle is on the ground when the bolts are torqued. This is for a '99 and should apply to the '87 as well. If someone has a '87 FSM that says something different, please jump in.


LEAF SPRING

REMOVAL

(1) Raise vehicle at body rails.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

(3) Support axle with hydraulic jack to relieve axle weight.

(4) Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the spring bracket stud.

(5) Remove nuts, U-bolts and spring bracket from axle.

(6) Remove nut and bolt attaching spring front eye to shackle.

(7) Remove nut and bolt from spring rear eye.

(8) Remove spring from vehicle.

INSTALLATION

(1) Position the spring front eye in the bracket. Loosely install the attaching bolt. Do not tighten at this time.

(2) Position the rear eye in the shackle bracket. Loosely install the attaching bolt and nut. Do not tighten at this time.

(3) Position the axle. Install the spring bracket, U-bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 N·m (52 ft. lbs.).

(4) Connect the stabilizer bar link to the spring bracket.

(5) Remove the hydraulic jack.

(6) Lower the vehicle.

(7) Tighten the spring front eye attaching bolts to 156 N·m (115 ft. lbs.).

(8) Tighten the spring rear eye attaching bolts to 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.).

(9) Tighten the stabilizer bar link to 74 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).

 

And I just replaced my flux capacitor last week...

 

This is new. This is the first time I've seen different torque values for front and rear. I stopped by the Jeep dealer on teh way home and ordered new bolts at $7 a piece. Retail price in their computer is $11 each. He cut me some slack...

Thank you for this info! I appreciate it.

 

I appreciate everyone's help here. I hit the bolt head and washer with a magnet and they are steel, I stand corrected. Here's a pic of the XJ Haynes Manual with the rear suspension torque specs.



When I get the new bolts I will swap out the old one-at-a-time. Then when all are swapped I will torque properly (without anti-seize). Appreciate everyone's input, advice, and time.

Thanks!

 

Thats not the first time I have seen stuff incorrect in a haynes manual.

 

Personally I wouldn't skip the anti-seize, maybe just torque a little less.

 

True dat!

 

X2 on the anti- seize. That stuff is made of ground up angels.

 

I think anti-seize has its place under the sun...for certain applications, like components you plan on removing off & on, but for other applications that you know you will never remove again, why waste your time and money on the stuff. Rear leaf springs, for example....when will they be changed again...never.

 

I keep telling myself about things like that, but I always end up removing the parts again :/