jasteee

Here's what happened...

I am in process of completing an engine swap from my 1997 XJ into a 2000 XJ. I got everything mounted into the 2000 and went to prime the oil pump using a makeshift tool consisting of a flathead screwdriver with the handle removed attached to an electric drill. I removed the CPS and began spinning the oil pump with the drill. I had a friend watch the oil gauge to confirm that it was in fact building pressure. After about five seconds I felt the drill bog down, and he confirmed that pressure rose to "about 40 PSI." Then suddenly pressure dropped and it no longer felt as though there was resistance from the pump to the drill. I spun it a few more times, wondering what had happened, while my friend watched the gauge.
It was already too late when I shone a light down and realized that the chuck of the drill gun was spinning on the shaft of the screwdriver and was scattering metal shavings directly down into the hole in the block and straight into the oil pan.

Now I'm not sure what to do. Will the oil filter catch tiny metal shavings like that? Even if it does, will those shavings ruin the new (standard flow Melling) oil pump? Should I drain the oil out (New 10W-30 is what is in it) and hope that all the shavings come out with it? I had a thought to drain the oil, then "flush" the oil pan by filling it up with some other type of thin, better flowing oil or oil based product like diesel fuel through the CPS port, not from the valve cover fill point, essentially just filling the oil pan itself then draining it right back out to allow the shavings to go with it. (I'm just throwing stuff out here at this point. I hope that doesn't make me sound like too much of an idiot.)
My theory is that since the chuck was spinning around the screwdriver, the oil pump itself was not spinning and therefore shouldn't have picked up any of the shavings transferring them anywhere outside of the oil pan, right?

Not sure what the best plan of action would be at this point. I mean, I know the obvious best route would be to pull everything, and clean it all to be sure, but I'm out of time, out of money and really need my Jeep back on the road again. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, so thank you in advance!

51 ashton

If it were mine here's what I would do. Drain the oi and strain it. Pull the oil pan and wipe it clean. I'd pull the oil pump and check it internally and flush it clean. I'd spray the area with brake clean from the point of entry of the shavings to the pan underneath. If it shows that you got all the material out of there then I'd put the pump and pan on fill it with oil. I d pull the valve cover off and re prime watching how the top end is receiving oil and go from there.. Only you know how long you ran it and how many shavings were generated. If you don't do this and something happens you will be doing this anyway and more plus it will cost more than just replacing the oil.

bigbadon

Have no fear! Those metal shavings will settle to bottom of pan where they will migrate to the drain plug area. They will STAY there..... but buy a magnetic drain plug, drain oil and put plug in and don't worry about it. After several normal oil changes the plug should have picked most of it up. May I ask you why you primed the pump in the first place, or was this a fresh rebuild? The way I prime a pump on the 4.0 is unscrew the filter and use a transmission funnel to pour oil directly into pump.

jasteee

Thank's for the input, guys.
Upon doing further research I think I'll be doing a combination of both your guys' methods of remediation. My plan is to first drain the oil, wash the area as best I can, refill, re-prime and watch the top end to ensure proper flow. If anything seems off I'll pull the pan.

It was a partial rebuild. I had the crank machined and got new main/rod bearings. I wasn't trying to go all out on this due to the fact that the body of the Jeep that the motor is going into probably wont last as long as the motor itself will even if I did nothing to it. The bearings looked iffy, though, so I decided to at least change them and add a new oil pump. I was trying to play it safe by priming the pump, but then OOPS! Not so much.

bigbadon

OK I see the need to prime. On just a oil pump replacement it is fine just to let engine idle until pressure builds b/c bearings already have residual oil. I just use a funnel or squirt can and oil through the filter base (outer hole). That will fill the pump for a quick prime.