Originally Posted by s346k

I don't understand the different types? I bought a replacement for an idiot light (what my jeep did have) and after swapping in a cluster with gauges the oil pressure gauge works fine. ??

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

What year is yours. If you broke what I think you did, like what I once broke, you need item (2). If the wiring is melted going I to the connector the you need item (1). These work iirc for 97+ maybe earlier too.

1) AIRTEX Part # 1P1080 More Info {#445, 4874918, 4897087AA, 5014007AA} WITH GAUGE $11.79

2) AIRTEX Part # 1S6755 More Info {#5149064AA, 514906AA, 56028807AA, 56028807AB} WITH GAUGE $33.99

Originally Posted by freegdr

Shows 2 terminals ...http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...039&cc=1315943

Originally Posted by EagleXJ

So I was replacing my oil filter the other day and snapped the oil pressure sending unit. I went to advanced auto and got a new one but it didn't work. Took it back and got a different one and this one doesn't work either. I unscrewed it and turned the engine on and oil blew out so the sensor is sure getting oil and I also gave power to the plug and that moved the gauge so the electrical from the sending unit to the panel is good. What could be wrong?!?!?! Please help!!!

Originally Posted by offroadordnance

Are you using a Chinese oil pressure sender socket? Some aftermarket sockets fit way too tight on the sending unit's plastic body and pull the terminals apart from shell upon socket removal. The sending unit won't read any pressure if it's pulled apart. Good way to tell is push the pigtail into the sending unit hard & hold it pushed in while running and have a helper observe the gauge for movement.

Originally Posted by CCKen

First, you want to see if the oil pressure indicator in the instrument cluster is working, then you want to check to see if you are getting a 5 volt reference at the oil pressure sensor connector.

First, perform the instrument cluster actuator test, paying attention to the action of the oil pressure indicator. If the needle cycles through its calibration points the indicator is okay. If just the oil pressure indicator malfunctions and the rest of the indicators cycle through their calibration points, the indicator itself is bad. If all the indicators malfunction, the instrument cluster is bad, or the wiring from the PCM to the cluster is bad.

With the oil pressure sensor connector attached to the sensor do this test:

Instrument Cluster Actuator Test

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.

(2) Depress the trip odometer reset button.

(3) While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.

(4) Release the trip odometer reset button.

(5) The gauges should cycle through their ranges, stopping at intermediate readings, going up and going down, at two second intervals. The indicator lamps should cycle on and off.

(6) The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.

Next, you will need a digital Voltmeter (cheap at Harbor Freight).

Ignition switch OFF.

Detach the connector from the oil pressure sensor.

Refer to the connector pinout below. The chart next to the connector
pinout shows you the pin cavity numbers, wire colors, and the function
of each pin cavity.

The view in the image below is of the body harness connector as you
are looking at it in your hand, not the sensor.

With your Voltmeter set at 20 VDC,

Turn the ignition switch to RUN, without starting the engine,

Touch the (+) lead of the meter probe to pin cavity 1, and the (-) lead of the meter probe to the battery (-) post.

You should read around 5 Volts on the meter.

Do no other tests at this time.

Do these tests and get back.

Originally Posted by EagleXJ

Its a 98.

That looks exactly like the sensor I bought.

Originally Posted by CCKen

If you are looking for an oil pressure sensor NAPA has them. They call it an oil pressure switch. Echlin part number ECH OP6185. 50 bux.

This is what I put on my Heep.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...185_0167111739

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

That's not the right one. 98s use 3 wires. A feed, possibly a ground and one that goes to the cluster

This is the right one. It needs to be three wires not two. Return, get this one and problem solved.

When my broke I changed and it worke until the wires finally broke. When I replaced I did the wiring backwards at first and nothing happened. Switched woes around and its been perfect.

Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

I swear my 98 had a 2 prong connector?

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

I don't believe so. Unless it was the distributer engines had the 2 prong style and the distributerless engines have the 3 wire idk.

Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

It's a 98, had a dizzy. How wouldn't it lol?