YES it IS THE ONLY WAY to do the rear main on an engine equipped with a two piece rear main.

you MUST pull the oil pan and the rear main cap. it DOES NOT come out without taking the rear main cap off, and that doesn't come off without taking the oil pan off.

so, YOUR way is not only wrong, but IMPOSSIBLE.

halfass my ***. go to any dealership who works on 4.0's and they'll tell you that Frank's way is the recommended procedure. it cuts down time by at least half, and really the only downside is that an *ahem* idiot *ahem* might smack their head on the transmission.

of course, that may knock some sense into said individual.

now, MY way...

is the same as the recommended procedure, except it involves a front suspension upgrade at the same time

 

to the OP

if your xj has been sitting awhile (a period of years) without service, and hasn't had the rear main replaced ever, then there is a good chance that the oil pan gasket will be baked on. with the oil pan off, it will take a long time to get the gasket off. the only way which I've found to get it off, is to use a brass scraper, a razor, some solvent (wd40), and a buzz-wheel and some brake clean.

use the razor to put some light scores into the gasket, then spray it with solvent and let it soak in. then scrape away. when you've gotten it scraped (this may take several tries), buzz it up with the buzz-wheel (I don't know the technical term, but it's a 90 degree air grinder with a 1.5" diameter sandpaper wheel on it) to clean it up, and brake clean the surface.

buy the more expensive oil pan gasket. use a small amount (4 dabs) of 3m spray adhesive to stick it up to the block, then pop the pan on and hand-thread all of the bolts. you need to RTV all of the sharp angles (at the main barings) and you could do the whole gasket if you want. RTV ultra black is the best IMHO.

Frank, let me know if I left anything out...it's possible that I did.

 

Sounds good to me. One of the things that has worked well for me in the past is brass wire wheels. They make real quick work of gaskets that are baked on.

 

It is reccommended to pull the starter to get it out of the way but not necessary. ALways a good idea to buy an extra rear main seal also for when you dick up the first one figuring out how to install it. RMS is cheap oil pan gasket though will run ya I think 35 bucks. Fun task and very dirt. I also recomend to raise the front off the ground and set some jack stands behind the lower control arm brackets. That way the front axle will hand lower to get the pan out. I was able to get it out that way. It also helps if you can remove your Track bar so you arn't fighting it when you take the pan out and when you are trying to put it back in.

I used a razor scraper on 21 year old baked on gasket too about 3 hours of scraping. once again alot of fun lol.

 

:P

...I didn't have any brass wire wheels, and the better part of 5 beers told me that taking the keys off the hook was a bad idea

 

Thanks guys. I was pretty sure that the tranny didn't have to be pulled, but I wanted to make sure. I don't have a chiltons for my jeep, but the one for my 84 Jimmy shows the same way I believe. Hittin the top part of the seal with the punch. Thanks again.

 

I'll post up torque specs for you for the whole job this weekend when I get a chance.

while it's apart, if you're gonna do it, consider installing a new oil pump. you may have to remove the oil pump to get clearance for the oil pan anyways, so now would be the time.

 

89Pioneer,
Check you PM inbox.

 

Ok i just saw pictures and see the flange on the back of the crank...and removal of the drive train still wouldnt grant acess to the RMS....I stand corrected....This is my first jeep I have worked on ford my whole life!! Next time let me know in a friendly way rather than telling me its BS or make a sticky for all engine questions to got to FrankZ as he Seems to be the supreme know it all around here.........

 

Know-it-all? Not even close. Able to read and and have learned alot from others.

 

Well then learn your jeep prior to posting on here with the know it all attitude. We are a good friendly forum but we don't take kindly to bad advice. THen you get upset when we flame your bad advice. We just don't want some newb pulling the tranny out of his jeep only to find he didn't have too.

 

call it what you want. if you want a friendly forum nicely correct some one instead of having a attitude and having fun flaming some one...if everyone that wanted to learn including my self. didnt want to ask a question because of the attitude they got then no one would learn?? My post had no attitude in it...but the smart response from Frank and you following along did.

 

You were wrong and and stood by your answer. You brought it on yourself.

 

i admited i was wrong,in the future you should help others with a better attitude...some people would like to know as much as you think you know. End of discussion...............

 

funny stuff...
89jeepjeep, I know where you are coming from, as with my '92 fox the tranny had to be pulled to do the rear main...
When I was reading up on how to do the rear main on my XJ was was excited to learn the tranny could stay put!

couple of things I learned...
Use the plastic inserts from drywall anchors to hold the gasket to the pan.
I had to remove my starter, but left the exhaust pipe in place.
Jacking the rig up and letting the axle droop was necessary to remove the pan.
The oil pump pick up tube came off by hand(twisting/pulling), and I gently tap'd it with a dead blow to press it into the new pump.
I'm glad I did the oil pump, as the one that came out felt nothing like the new one in it's action.

Good luck.