The o-ring behind my oil filter adapter has gotten so it`s leaking pretty badly and I have prety much given up on getting it off..Long story short my brother used a allen style socket to try and budge it and it stripped up a lot of the points and now the correct T-60 torq won`t go in tightly....I was contemplating simply draining the oil..Cleaning it good with parts cleaner and then once it dries just sealing the whole seam with some sort of compound which would keep the oil from coming out...Any ideas if this seems possible and what might be a good product to use for this use?..

 

i would not do that take it to a mechanic to have it done. that way it is right and you wont have to mess with it again

 

Can`t do that..It`s a sickness of mine I have the gaskets and it seems like it shouldn`t be that hard so I`d hate to have to shell out who knows how much..My new plan is to go to the junkyard early tomorrow and try and find at least ONE Cherokee of the 14 or so there that will let me get the adapter off now that I have the correct T-60 torq...From there I`ll get mine off some way even if I have to destroy it in the process

 

its not a t60. I had the same problem, unfortunately I just stopped playing beer pong and you know...
Its an allen head key I think 5/8 but not exactly sure will post back in the morning with a clear head.

 

If its a Torx is a T60, If its an Allen it a 9/16

 

Well if it were me and I needed the rig asap I may put some "right stuff" sealer on it after I cleaned all the oil off with some denatured alcohol. Or if I had a little time to work on It I would weld a short bar to it to break the nut loose. You will spend some cash on the mechanic getting it off. It may even result in pulling the motor if it wont come off. I know mine was heck getting off, even with the torx bit.

I had a wrangler setup in my XJ till my first oil change a few weeks ago. Those are straight out and dont have that 90 degree adapter. It worked but I just had a shorter filter on it. Man was it a pain in the rear to change. I then put that 90 on so filter changes would be easier.

 

Well I went to the junkyard and within 5 minutes had another adapter out of a Grand Cherokee which has the same engine but had like 6 inches of clearence between the adapter and the wheel wells..Man what a difference that makes!..Tried 4 different Cherokees and failed on each one getting that thing off no matter what I did...Went home and wasted 3 hours trying to get my adapter off using torqs..allens...vise grips..pipe wrenches Finally said the hell with it and cleaned everything up real good and forced as much high temp copper silicone maker as I could down into the tiny crack where the adapter meets the engine block and let that dry for an hour and then just coated completely around the whole thing with a thick layer of the stuff...Will let that dry til tomorrow and see if that stops the leak...If not I have access to a MIG welder at work and may weld a bar across the thing to break it free...I shall report back tomorrow on how the silicone worked sealing the adapter

 

I did a write up check out write up section for this task. I think it is under the motor mounts one.

 

i like the welding idea. weld a long bar to that sucker and break it loose now that you've got another one you can put on

 

Thank for mentioning it as it may help someone else but unfortunately the write up you did was for the earlier style Cherokee adapter which was held on by a hex bolt you can remove with a wrench..In 93 I think they turned the filter to the side which was a good idea but for some unknown reason they did away with the hex bolt and switched to that horrid inverted torq bolt...The whole time I was messing with mine I kept saying "Why isn`t this just held on by a standard 6 sided bolt????"..I guess someone with an engineering degree wanted to justify their big salary and show what they got from all their years of schooling and thought this thing up

 

Since you're thinking of using your welder anyway, what about this? Take a large nut that has an I.D. that's big enough so that you can weld the I.D. of the nut to the top of the Torx bolt. Then when it cools, use a socket on the nut and it will unscrew the bolt.
I've seen this done many times on stripped/rounded off fasteners.

 

I may try this once I show my welder what he has to work with....The silicone was a waste of time as it still leaks...The silicone I used said not yo use it where it was in continuous contact with "solvents" so maybe the engine oil just ate it`s way thru?

 

I think i tried everything to get mine off and still havent got it off. If you find a good way that doesnt include welding let me know ha ha otherwise i need to open up a tab at advanced A.P. ha ha that little drip sure makes a freakin mess under the truck though

 

get a easy out socket and your good

 

The issue is usually having enough room for the socket/torx between the adapter and unirail. But your right on track with welding a nut... and then use a large long wrench to get it off.

And for the record, there were 3 different types of adapters. Hex head, Torx and Allen. Make sure you know what you have before you make the job harder as the OP did.