I second the heating of the engine and the use of vise grips. You will probably trash the bolt and possibly the adapter. Worst case scenario, a sawsall cutting the adapter half way through and using the same vise grips to remove what is left of the bolt. At this point you will need a new adapter and bolt, but at least you will be starting at a clean slate. I would work on getting the bolt and adapter in hand now before any cutting as at the very least your bolt will have to be replaced. Do it while the car is still driveable unless you have another set of wheels. Wager both parts can be gotten cheaply from a JY.

 

Get a bolt from the jy, its a dealer part so pay lots of money at the stealership or get it from the junk yard.

 

A hot engine apparently works, I did it cold but in terms of how and what to get it out with, no special tools are required or remving the motor mount. Simply use a TORX L Wrench, they make em that big and they are cheap O'Rielly has em.. Then slide a pipe over the long end, it may take 20-24" pipe if its super stuck. That is all there is to it.

On the fellow that stripped it, likely you had it half in. Spray it with wd40, use a coat hanger to clean it out completely, there may be enough to still grab it.

 

Duct taping T60 torx bit, punched out of its 1/2" drive socket, to a $10 craftsman combo wrench with boxed 12-point 1/2" on one end and 9/16" on the other (beefiest/longest 1/2" wrench on the shelf), did the trick, with a bigger 12-point wrench as a cheater did the trick with about 60 foot pounds of torque.

Wood stake jammed in to keep torx firmly in. No sign of Loctite.

Used the T55 L wrench for the easy turns, as T60 L did not fit in the ZJ. Just did the one big O-ring from Napa.

Two different mechanics quoted $80-100, so now I have $30 of tools and hopefully a stop to my leak.

 

I just replaced all my orings im my filter adapter. Such a pain but now i dont have to put oil in every other day.

 

I'm going thru the same garbage now with my adapter too. I'm so annoyed that I've already walked away from it twice. I got the t60 but my hands are huge. Which angle is the best to approach it like from the undercarriage or thru the to of the engine compartment?

 

BOTH, break the tension from the bottom then do the rest from the top end. Reverse to install.

 

If the o-ring kit has 3 o-rings, and one is for the adapter, and one is for the bolt, what is the third o-ring for? (edit) oh never mind, two for the bolt

 

Use a cheater with the t60 and combo wrench. Switch to the t55 when clearance becomes an issue like others have stated.

 

I also did this, but while tightening it back up (should have waited to get a new one from the JY because mine was all rusty )

I stripped it even more trying to get it back out, but it is in there tight enough that its not leaking at all.

I am going to get my friend with an air grinder to help me cut it off. Really not that big of a deal, except maneuvering the grinder in place and not starting a fire. Cut the adapter until you make it through the bolt (its hollow if you remember, so probably wont be that difficult).

Get the rest of the bolt out with vicegrips or something of that nature and replace with new parts.

 

Just a heads up, I mentioned above that the rubber gasket is best and have learned that to be false.
If you change your oil pan gasket and want it to NOT LEAK then go to the dealership and buy the original CORK gasket, it`s harder to install but it will not leak if done right or so I have been told by trusted sources ( Jeep specialized Mechanics )


Cheers

 

So I went to fix this leak today and found out my torx bolt was stripped. One sawzall, 3 blades, and 3 beers and a lot of cussing later I got it off. What a pain in the A@@! Just screwed the oil filter right to the block for now.

 

I have rubber gaskets on my oil pan and head cover, no leaks what so ever. The key to not leaking is to follow proper installations procedures and rechecking tightness ever so often.

 

I just eliminated the adapter and now filter goes right on the engine block.

 

Just putting in my two cents.

DO NOT BUY CHEAP O-RINGS LIKE THE DORMAN HELP PACKS!

I did and I have had to do this job all over again. This time I used Mopar o-rings and they worked just fine. While comparing the two sets I noticed the Mopar rings are about 1/3 thicker than the cheaper ones. The large main ring wasn't thick enough on the cheap set to make a proper seal. They failed two days in. I was leaking more oil than I was originally.

With the Mopar rings I am on my second week and not a drop. I expect them to last another 150,000+ miles.