Nss cleaning
#2
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I've never done mine, contact cleaner I would think. Truth be told, I use mall-wart starting fluid for almost everything. There is some sort of "oxy guard" stuff besides Dy-electric grease maybe, for after it's clean.
The "killer" is getting the thing off the shaft with out killing it. Spray well with PB or kriol, preferably days ahead.
cleaning the contacts "bright" with something fine, 200 or higher is what I will do.
On the Nss. If I start it cold and just re-park, it may not start. I just need to jiggle, push the shifter a bit and it makes contact. When I park hot , I'm OK to re start. It's been like that for maybe 10 years. Doesent bother me much. I'm guessing it's gummy, and warm it moves, seats right.
The "killer" is getting the thing off the shaft with out killing it. Spray well with PB or kriol, preferably days ahead.
cleaning the contacts "bright" with something fine, 200 or higher is what I will do.
On the Nss. If I start it cold and just re-park, it may not start. I just need to jiggle, push the shifter a bit and it makes contact. When I park hot , I'm OK to re start. It's been like that for maybe 10 years. Doesent bother me much. I'm guessing it's gummy, and warm it moves, seats right.
Last edited by cruiser54; 03-10-2024 at 07:34 AM.
#3
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L I6 (The best engine ever made)
Here's a link> http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm Idk about this one> http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-artic...switch-rebuild I've never done mine, contact cleaner I would think. Truth be told, I use mall-wart starting fluid for almost everything. There is some sort of "oxy guard" stuff besides Dy-electric grease maybe, for after it's clean. The "killer" is getting the thing off the shaft with out killing it. Spray well with PB or kriol, preferably days ahead. cleaning the contacts "bright" with something fine, 200 or higher is what I will do. On the Nss. If I start it cold and just re-park, it may not start. I just need to jiggle, push the shifter a bit and it makes contact. When I park hot , I'm OK to re start. It's been like that for maybe 10 years. Doesent bother me much. I'm guessing it's gummy, and warm it moves, seats right.
Last edited by cruiser54; 03-10-2024 at 07:34 AM.
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Year: 90,84
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Give it a few decades. There IS a time to just relax and go to La la land.
Sounds like you need a new one. That third small, probably green wire on your starter solonoid will make the starter go if you energize it. EVEN IF IT IT'S IN GEAR, AND YOU ARE UNDER IT!!
Pry out on the body, and try to tap, drive the shaft in. Having a nut on the end of a driven shaft protects the threads on the shaft.
Spray it with PB pr Kriol. Maybe heat it without making a fire. Others here know better than me!.
Sounds like you need a new one. That third small, probably green wire on your starter solonoid will make the starter go if you energize it. EVEN IF IT IT'S IN GEAR, AND YOU ARE UNDER IT!!
Pry out on the body, and try to tap, drive the shaft in. Having a nut on the end of a driven shaft protects the threads on the shaft.
Spray it with PB pr Kriol. Maybe heat it without making a fire. Others here know better than me!.
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makros (03-09-2024)
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IDk where the 96 starter relay is. One or it's blades goes to that green sol wire that makes it start. Might search "nss bypass" if I needed it to go.
#6
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If you ground the relay coil to the chassis with a wire the starter will fire up, even if the transmission is in gear- but the NSS is out of the equation if need be. (the ignition switch applies +12V to one side of the relay coil when you turn it to start- NSS grounds the other end of the coil)
It'll throw a CEL. Add a momentary pushbutton between ground and the start relay, press it when turning the key. No CEL and instant theft deterrent, lol.
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makros (03-09-2024)
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Year: 90,84
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Hey, that's clever! If my compression ever get's up over 217, maybe I'll can this old thing and get a 96.
..................87
85..........l......___.......l.......86
.............__
30
So, which socket on the far left relay would you energize, (jump to) to activate the solonoid? (87?), and if it were plugged in, which would you ground to bypass the nss, (85?)
..................87
85..........l......___.......l.......86
.............__
30
So, which socket on the far left relay would you energize, (jump to) to activate the solonoid? (87?), and if it were plugged in, which would you ground to bypass the nss, (85?)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-21-2013 at 01:14 AM.
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#8
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Here' ya go.
'96 with the start relay pulled partway out. Red wire stuck into the socket that needs to be grounded to bypass the NSS.
I left the wire and switch in place after cleaning my NSS, sure beats having to climb out and fiddle if it goes bad again.
'96 with the start relay pulled partway out. Red wire stuck into the socket that needs to be grounded to bypass the NSS.
I left the wire and switch in place after cleaning my NSS, sure beats having to climb out and fiddle if it goes bad again.
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Huh? Pardon me Radi, but your relays are not square. ???. Same general configuration as the SPDT relay I tried to diagram? Cool, because that's where 85 would be, which is where the relay coil grounds...if I have it right.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-24-2013 at 06:31 PM. Reason: SpDT Relay
#10
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Yeah, it would be '85' on your drawing, that the NSS grounds. I'm not sure what the numbers are on mine, I'd have to go find my reading glasses.
Nope, no square relays here. Rectangular is where it's at.
Nope, no square relays here. Rectangular is where it's at.
#11
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To fill in, people. The coil connected to the two vitrical "hands" makes a little electromagnet if it has current. (ether way). That magnetic field pulls an iron (ferrous), plunger to move points to contact to connect the bottom to the top. (again, current can flow ether way. ) Those two posts on the relay that need power can be fed differently. The one for the coil might be from the ign switch, while the one providing power to the starter solenoid might be on a fused-link for example.
Radi's tip (and photo) of how to ground the coil with a wire, (instead of the NSS doing that), seems pretty cool to me. Guessing 91 to 96 on that.
FURTHER READING A spdp relay means "single pole, double through" The relay works as I explained above, with a twist. At rest, power from 30, is connected to the middle blade, 87a.
When there is current from the "right hand", (86, through to 85, "left hand") it disconnects power to the middle 87a and puts it to 87, to power something , like your starter.
There is great info on Google for the SPDT relay.
Radi's tip (and photo) of how to ground the coil with a wire, (instead of the NSS doing that), seems pretty cool to me. Guessing 91 to 96 on that.
FURTHER READING A spdp relay means "single pole, double through" The relay works as I explained above, with a twist. At rest, power from 30, is connected to the middle blade, 87a.
When there is current from the "right hand", (86, through to 85, "left hand") it disconnects power to the middle 87a and puts it to 87, to power something , like your starter.
There is great info on Google for the SPDT relay.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-24-2013 at 06:29 PM. Reason: SP,DT relay!
#12
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Year: 1996
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Got this nss for $45 shipped from am auto parts.com, I've never ordered from them before, but it's worth a try for a $45 nss! Here it is, I'll let everyone know if it works good, or if its $45 for a reason... It's defiantly a new part, not remanufactured.
#14
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the new nss went in and works perfectly! If you have an old style xj this is the one to get! I lubed it up with some lithium grease before I put it in and I lubricated the shaft it pushes on to as well. I used a wire brush to clean the shaft before that too. I gently hit it on with a mallet and a rag, and I bolted it right in! Would've been alot easier to get the old one off if it was on a lift, but I just slid under her... After the nss job I found the gasket that goes under the large nut, it looks old so hopefully it's from the old nss and it fell on to the street... I'm gonna check it though...
#15
i did removed and cleaned my NSS on my 1998 jc sport,was easy just took me 45 minutes to remove and clean and back,be careful with the 2 springs they are easy disappear,the hard part is to remove the NSS,i made a angle on one of my flat screw driver for leverage,