There is a range where the reverse lights will come on, there is also a jumper that can be made to close the circuit in your NSS that will allow your starter to function (I'll find it and post). To determine the range, loosen the adjustment bolt (the small 10 or 11 mm bolt, not the lock nut on the output shaft) and rotate the NSS until your reverse lights come on and note (or mark) the position. Continue rotating in the same direction until they turn off and note that location. Then adjust the NSS so that you're in the middle of that range.

 

Alright, it's wire "B" and "C" (they're labeled on the NSS side of the plug), use a piece of wire or a paper clip to jump those two ports on the NSS plug and it should start. If it doesn't then your NSS isn't the problem, if it does start then your NSS is defective or out of adjustment.

It may be obvious but... Your NSS must be plugged into the harness in order for the jumper to work.

!!!Make sure your transmission is in PARK when you perform this test!!!

 

For your own knowledge...

Continuity should exist between terminals B and C (both should be BLACK wires) when the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL

Continuity should exist between terminals A and E with the transmission in REVERSE, it is this continuity that illuminates your reverse lights.

Continuity should exist between terminals A and G with the transmission in THIRD gear.

You can test this with a multimeter.

 

Check for voltage on the small wire that you jump to the big one to start it - while someone tries to turn the key.
It should be 0 until the key is turned to start - then 12 volts.

That signal comes from the ignition switch, then through the NSS. You should be able to find that wire under the dash - to make sure the ignition switch start (S) terminal is working.

That's why everyone should have a factory service manual - cheap on CD's.

 

What do you mean by " Parking switch stuff" I have not a clue what that is

 

I think he's referring to the NSS. Do the tests listed above. I would start with the jumper (because it's easy and will tell us a lot) and if that fails to start her, we'll move on the rrich's suggestion to test the start signal to your starter.

 

Sounds to me like you might have an old cranky starter. It may test out okay electrically, but you could have sticking brushes that don't make good contact with the armature inside, or dirty/corroded contact points on the armature. This presents as an intermittant issue, but one that once it occurs, can be a pain to have it "reset" itself.

Try carefully taping on the side of the starter housing with a hammer and see if it will start. No guarantees, but this will often loosen stuck brushes enough to spring forward and make contact with the armature so it can start. If it is a stuck brush problem that is...

If you hear a click when trying to start but the engine doesn't try to turn, you at least know you've got voltage to the starter, but not necessarily the proper amperage. A weak ground may allow proper voltage to get down there, but not allow enough amperage to actually turn the starter motor. Check your grounds as others have suggested. Given your other symptoms, I'd say you have a ground issue. An easy way to check this would be to use some jumper cables to bridge between the battery negative and the engine block (unpainted surface or bracket) or starter housing. Use the other cable to bridge between the battery negative and the body. If it cranks right up, check you ground straps and connecting points.

 

Did you try the jumper?

 

Hey there F1. neat tip on the NSS jumper. Pretty choppy thread, just want to slip in a few things then I'll butt out.
Battery connections, all four surfaces are shiny clean lead. That thin, grey crust might look OK, but is actually a good insulator that might account for some of what's going on. Shiny!

Whew

 

Easy test, that^. I guess the starter goes every time it's jumped, doesn't need a whack. Harbor Freight sells a meter that actually works, < $5 Btw. You can win this one!

 

if you turn key to start position check small wire on starter for current if theres nothing maybe ignition switch to a do do?

 

There is no "click" when turning the key. And as far as the starter goes I've had it bench tested @ Autozone & Advance Auto & both times it passed twice. But I wonder if the bench testers test the cylinoid as well?

 

Yes & no, I jumped the 2 connections with a paper clip & tried turning the motor over & nada. But you said the connectors have to be plugged back into eachother? How do I do that with a paper clip standing up out of the female side?

 

have you done this?

 

O.K. would like to check the ignition switch but don't know where or how? I'm in my 40"s (shh) & have been wrenching on cars for years but when it comes to this electrical stuff I ALWAYS TRIED TO STAY AWAY FROM IT. But recently I have been trying to learn so any help for location & testing would help.