no start
02-17-2013, 04:44 PM
#32
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I've never bothered to test mine, (except the ground), and have never seen one on a throttle body.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-17-2013 at 04:47 PM.
02-17-2013, 07:35 PM
#34
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Year: 90,84
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Yes, I think so. I'd Check the harness side ground and 5v feed. Might just take a minute. Bad wires and and connections come up allot. In a link in my signature is Cruiser's sensor ground test, (targeted at older Jeeps). I'd jiggle the wires while testing, you might find something. Also never a bad thing to clean the "ground gang" by the dipstick tube. Just ruling that stuff out might save headaches. Your temp sensors, as well as the map, PCM and TCU may all end up grounding there. (and more)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-17-2013 at 07:43 PM.
02-17-2013, 08:13 PM
#35
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Yes, I think so. I'd Check the harness side ground and 5v feed. Might just take a minute. Bad wires and and connections come up allot. In a link in my signature is Cruiser's sensor ground test, (targeted at older Jeeps). I'd jiggle the wires while testing, you might find something. Also never a bad thing to clean the "ground gang" by the dipstick tube. Just ruling that stuff out might save headaches. Your temp sensors, as well as the map, PCM and TCU may all end up grounding there. (and more)
02-17-2013, 08:22 PM
#36
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
No, pretty sure they only are adjustable till 90. Normally I guess "drivability" is what gets mentioned there. Shifting issues or *******.
The weekends sometimes can be slow...hopefully someone with more smarts than me might show up tomorrow. I'm just learning my old Renix, mostly.
I'm not sure what Highmilage was getting at. As far as I know the clutch switch or whatever only locks out starting. Is your dieing related to the using clutch?
The weekends sometimes can be slow...hopefully someone with more smarts than me might show up tomorrow. I'm just learning my old Renix, mostly.
I'm not sure what Highmilage was getting at. As far as I know the clutch switch or whatever only locks out starting. Is your dieing related to the using clutch?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-17-2013 at 08:27 PM.
02-17-2013, 09:50 PM
#37
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
No, pretty sure they only are adjustable till 90. Normally I guess "drivability" is what gets mentioned there. Shifting issues or *******.
The weekends sometimes can be slow...hopefully someone with more smarts than me might show up tomorrow. I'm just learning my old Renix, mostly.
I'm not sure what Highmilage was getting at. As far as I know the clutch switch or whatever only locks out starting. Is your dieing related to the using clutch?
The weekends sometimes can be slow...hopefully someone with more smarts than me might show up tomorrow. I'm just learning my old Renix, mostly.
I'm not sure what Highmilage was getting at. As far as I know the clutch switch or whatever only locks out starting. Is your dieing related to the using clutch?
02-17-2013, 10:10 PM
#38
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Might be part of the reason they moved the MAP to the TB was to cut the lag time of it sensing you just put your foot in it. The old tube was small and rigid. One guy posted that was to make it respond faster. Anyway I'd rule out the grounds if I was you..I guess. Something to check anytime.
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-17-2013 at 10:15 PM.
02-17-2013, 10:25 PM
#39
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Might be part of the reason they moved the MAP to the TB was to cut the lag time of it sensing you just put your foot in it. The old tube was small and rigid. One guy posted that was to make it respond faster. Anyway I'd rule out the grounds if I was you..I guess. Something to check anytime.
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
02-17-2013, 10:49 PM
#45
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
The timing is set by the PCM, (not adjustable). Another poster just had issues with cheap gas that seem to have gone away when he switched stations. I'd be careful just leaving it run...it will drain the batery of course if it dies. Also once (dummy me) I let one run with out PS fluid and melted the pump.(essentially).
Boy, I get that you must be at wits end. Do you have a digital volt meter? Checking the sensor grounds is really something to rule out. Also you might put 32oz. of isopropel (rubbing alcohol) in it and drive it enough to mix it in there. It will mix with water and help move it through...might help. Deffenantly that can be an issue.
Some of the guys who know your jeep better might show up tomorrow.
A last thought..rrrrr FSM says disconnecting the battery for just a minute resets the PCM, I think. Guys "in the know" have posted it takes 8-10 hrs for "the capacitors to bleed down". I only mention that because it' easy, cheap, and harmless!
Boy, I get that you must be at wits end. Do you have a digital volt meter? Checking the sensor grounds is really something to rule out. Also you might put 32oz. of isopropel (rubbing alcohol) in it and drive it enough to mix it in there. It will mix with water and help move it through...might help. Deffenantly that can be an issue.
Some of the guys who know your jeep better might show up tomorrow.
A last thought..rrrrr FSM says disconnecting the battery for just a minute resets the PCM, I think. Guys "in the know" have posted it takes 8-10 hrs for "the capacitors to bleed down". I only mention that because it' easy, cheap, and harmless!