No start...
#1
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Year: 1989
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No start...
Yesterday I was riding a trail. Really muddy and I hit a big rock under the mud and it put my jeep to a dead stop and killed it. Afterwards, when id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die. Everytime. But I can't get it to run.
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
#2
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Boy..I should know this better! Sounds like you are not getting current to the front of the ballast resistor, (for the fuel pump) there on the inner fender by the air cleaner, or current isn't making it through to go to the pump. The fuel pump relay (second one) takes power from a fused link? Then uses power from the ign, (fused?) to shoot power there. Sort of sorry of me to not be sure! Anyway your pump will need power out the rear of that ceramic resistor.
You checked the fuses?
You checked the fuses?
#3
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Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Boy..I should know this better! Sounds like you are not getting current to the front of the ballast resistor, (for the fuel pump) there on the inner fender by the air cleaner, or current isn't making it through to go to the pump. The fuel pump relay (second one) takes power from a fused link? Then uses power from the ign, (fused?) to shoot power there. Sort of sorry of me to not be sure! Anyway your pump will need power out the rear of that ceramic resistor.
You checked the fuses?
You checked the fuses?
#5
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Check the resistance/continuity, from the engine to the negative battery post, AND to the body.
If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.
You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?
If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.
You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-03-2012 at 06:04 PM.
#6
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Check the resistance/continuity, from the engine to the negative battery post, AND to the body.
If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.
You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?
If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.
You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?
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#8
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You mean it has 12 volts in, it's ground is good, and it's not running? Yep, "its out"...
#9
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OK then...just to be clear, the pump is fine with battery current. (12-14ish). The resistor was added because of noise. Plenty of guys eliminate it, don't want do deal with it failing. Myself, I would make sure the pump (at it's connector) Has power and ground. If it does, (and doesn't run), I'm off to Napa to get a pump, (not an Airtex). Not an Arirex. You gotta have less than around 1/4 tank, and not make a single little spark when you hammer/tap that ring. Brass drift, oak, I think i got away with PCV last time. Or you could "make the news".
Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.
Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-03-2012 at 07:47 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
OK then...just to be clear, the pump is fine with battery current. (12-14ish). The resistor was added because of noise. Plenty of guys eliminate it, don't want do deal with it failing. Myself, I would make sure the pump (at it's connector) Has power and ground. If it does, (and doesn't run), I'm off to Napa to get a pump, (not an Airtex). Not an Arirex. You gotta have less than around 1/4 tank, and not make a single little spark when you hammer/tap that ring. Brass drift, oak, I think i got away with PCV last time. Or you could "make the news".
Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.
Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.
#11
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No clue. I can offer a "life lesson" Some of the toughest problems involve a distraction that takes your focus somewhere else. Magicians make a living at it. Carefully, gently, install the new, You could "Autopsy" the old later if you want. From following here and from other stuff I've picked up...an assembly line can screw up, crank out a bunch of defective stuff. They check what, 1 in 1000 I don't know. When you buy "factory refurbished" you know that you got something (computer, whatever), that actually was checked, We get what comes off the line normally.
It's almost imposable to work around that "distraction" bit. we are wired otherwise, to go with what we see!
Or ,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam%27s_razor, the shock freed up some crud?
"It is a principle urging one to select from among competing hypotheses that which makes the fewest assumptions."
My motor ran, but didn't pump. Pin was sheared at the impeller.
It's almost imposable to work around that "distraction" bit. we are wired otherwise, to go with what we see!
Or ,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam%27s_razor, the shock freed up some crud?
"It is a principle urging one to select from among competing hypotheses that which makes the fewest assumptions."
My motor ran, but didn't pump. Pin was sheared at the impeller.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-03-2012 at 11:43 PM. Reason: offer
#12
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Hmm... well. The little filter on the pickup tube had been knocked off. Maybe it did hit pretty hard.
#13
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Gotta go....I'm pretty careful there, I rice things through a paper towel or something so I might know if there was something there or not. Kind og ugly getting that check vlave out, and tha nature of that..is should pass a pretty giid chunk..anyway, of you can find a a good piece of crap in there maybe..
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I think that would do it with the check valve disabled. Hold it in a bucket of water with a pin/wire/straightened paperclip holding the check valve, run it backwards, see what's in the bottom of the bucket.
Correction. Dyslectic here! Would need to remove or pull, (not push), on the check valve!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-04-2012 at 12:20 AM.