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Old 09-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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Yesterday I was riding a trail. Really muddy and I hit a big rock under the mud and it put my jeep to a dead stop and killed it. Afterwards, when id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die. Everytime. But I can't get it to run.
Anyone have any ideas?
Old 09-03-2012, 05:12 PM
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Boy..I should know this better! Sounds like you are not getting current to the front of the ballast resistor, (for the fuel pump) there on the inner fender by the air cleaner, or current isn't making it through to go to the pump. The fuel pump relay (second one) takes power from a fused link? Then uses power from the ign, (fused?) to shoot power there. Sort of sorry of me to not be sure! Anyway your pump will need power out the rear of that ceramic resistor.

You checked the fuses?
Old 09-03-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Boy..I should know this better! Sounds like you are not getting current to the front of the ballast resistor, (for the fuel pump) there on the inner fender by the air cleaner, or current isn't making it through to go to the pump. The fuel pump relay (second one) takes power from a fused link? Then uses power from the ign, (fused?) to shoot power there. Sort of sorry of me to not be sure! Anyway your pump will need power out the rear of that ceramic resistor.

You checked the fuses?
Where is the fusible link? And I put power directly to the fuel pump from the battery. The pump worked fine, but it still wont run.
Old 09-03-2012, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dev_daddy
Where is the fusible link? .
Post #3 in my signature shows the starter relay. A "web" of 5 or so links come off that. Did you check fuses? Also , just curious, is your battery well secured? Thinking that the shock moved it? For no good reason.
Old 09-03-2012, 05:49 PM
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Check the resistance/continuity, from the engine to the negative battery post, AND to the body.

If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.

You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?

Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-03-2012 at 06:04 PM.
Old 09-03-2012, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Check the resistance/continuity, from the engine to the negative battery post, AND to the body.

If you give it some starting fluid you can rule out it being too lean. If you pull a plug and it's not wet, you can rule out being flooded. Finding out weather it's lack of spark, or lack of fuel, or being flooded will help. Normally something flooding will start and work for just a bit after it's sat a bit. Here's one....make sure the little MAP tube from the inside of the TB back, and up to the Map up there on the firewall is connected and perfect. It might flood right away if that's off.

You said " id start my jeep, it'd fire right up, then immediately die"...it does that every time?
Yes it'll start up and die. Everytime. Til my fuel pump went out completely.
Old 09-03-2012, 06:53 PM
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You mean it has 12 volts in, it's ground is good, and it's not running? Yep, "its out"...
Old 09-03-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You mean it has 12 volts in, it's ground is good, and it's not running? Yep, "its out"...
Haha no.. it had good fuel pressure, the pump ran. My jeep would start and then die. Then after messing with it for a while, the pump quit.
Old 09-03-2012, 07:45 PM
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OK then...just to be clear, the pump is fine with battery current. (12-14ish). The resistor was added because of noise. Plenty of guys eliminate it, don't want do deal with it failing. Myself, I would make sure the pump (at it's connector) Has power and ground. If it does, (and doesn't run), I'm off to Napa to get a pump, (not an Airtex). Not an Arirex. You gotta have less than around 1/4 tank, and not make a single little spark when you hammer/tap that ring. Brass drift, oak, I think i got away with PCV last time. Or you could "make the news".

Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.

Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-03-2012 at 07:47 PM.
Old 09-03-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
OK then...just to be clear, the pump is fine with battery current. (12-14ish). The resistor was added because of noise. Plenty of guys eliminate it, don't want do deal with it failing. Myself, I would make sure the pump (at it's connector) Has power and ground. If it does, (and doesn't run), I'm off to Napa to get a pump, (not an Airtex). Not an Arirex. You gotta have less than around 1/4 tank, and not make a single little spark when you hammer/tap that ring. Brass drift, oak, I think i got away with PCV last time. Or you could "make the news".

Hit it good up there with a pressure washer if you can first, everything falls in your face while you are under there.
I moved my tank into the back of my jeep. Inside. I have the pump out already. And it was an airtex ppump. The pump is only a year old. Why is airtex so bad? Out of curiosity. And how does the pump croaking explain how hitting the rock killed it? Just trying to make sense of it all.
Old 09-03-2012, 08:38 PM
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No clue. I can offer a "life lesson" Some of the toughest problems involve a distraction that takes your focus somewhere else. Magicians make a living at it. Carefully, gently, install the new, You could "Autopsy" the old later if you want. From following here and from other stuff I've picked up...an assembly line can screw up, crank out a bunch of defective stuff. They check what, 1 in 1000 I don't know. When you buy "factory refurbished" you know that you got something (computer, whatever), that actually was checked, We get what comes off the line normally.

It's almost imposable to work around that "distraction" bit. we are wired otherwise, to go with what we see!

Or ,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam%27s_razor, the shock freed up some crud?
"It is a principle urging one to select from among competing hypotheses that which makes the fewest assumptions."

My motor ran, but didn't pump. Pin was sheared at the impeller.
Attached Thumbnails No start...-101_0021.jpg  

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Old 09-03-2012, 08:49 PM
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Hmm... well. The little filter on the pickup tube had been knocked off. Maybe it did hit pretty hard.
Old 09-03-2012, 08:59 PM
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Gotta go....I'm pretty careful there, I rice things through a paper towel or something so I might know if there was something there or not. Kind og ugly getting that check vlave out, and tha nature of that..is should pass a pretty giid chunk..anyway, of you can find a a good piece of crap in there maybe..
Old 09-03-2012, 09:01 PM
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Ill just get a new pump and see if it fixes anyything.
Old 09-04-2012, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dev_daddy
Hmm... well. The little filter on the pickup tube had been knocked off. Maybe it did hit pretty hard.
Sorry post^ of mine . What I was getting at is that I myself might take the time to see if it's just jammed with a piece of crud. Tough to "back-flush" past the armature and windings. You would need somehow hold the check valve, push back, THEN rotate it. How the heck you gonna rotate it? Except forwards. What happens with reverse polarity?

I think that would do it with the check valve disabled. Hold it in a bucket of water with a pin/wire/straightened paperclip holding the check valve, run it backwards, see what's in the bottom of the bucket.

Correction. Dyslectic here! Would need to remove or pull, (not push), on the check valve!

Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-04-2012 at 12:20 AM.


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