No reverse lights
#1
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
No reverse lights
starting off yes I know nss. I replaced it twice still no lights. Tested continuity in the switch it’s fine. Tested the bulbs by jumping pos terminal to connector and both lights come on so the lights and the rest of the circuit are fine I checked to make sure voltage was getting to the connector and it is I’m not sure how much is the right amount but it’s getting voltage. My only train of thought is possibly not sending enough bolts thru the circuit and yes I’ve adjusted it and the Jeep starts and runs fine.
#2
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Are you testing voltage with a meter? OR with a test light? If a meter, try it with a test light. Here's why.
Have you checked your grounds?
Have you checked your grounds?
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
How are you getting a voltage reading with a test light?
Can't tell you where to find your grounds until I know what year XJ we are talking about.
Can't tell you where to find your grounds until I know what year XJ we are talking about.
#7
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Ah. Dat 'splains it.
Well, I don't have a manual for a 96. They seem to be made of Unobtainium. Nobody seems to have a PDF version. I have a few others, though. The backup lights in a 97 ground at G302, which is common to a bunch of things, including the fuel pump and your dome lights. If you aren't having problems with those, it's probably not the ground. And your test with jumping 12v to the connector also points to good ground, so.... next!
So, 8.3 volts? That seems mighty low. My guess is there is a poor connection somewhere upstream of that point. Could be corrosion in a connection, or a frayed wire that is holding on by a strand or two.
A poor connection upstream will act like a resistor, dropping the voltage that is available to your lamps. It's like R1 in this diagram. Your lamps are R2. Instead of getting the 12v that is at the top of R1, you get... something less. How much less depends on the ratio of the values of R1 and R2. For example, if they are equal, you'll get 6v at the top of R2. It can be calculated if the value of R1 and R2 are known. In your case, it looks like R1 is leaving you 8.3.
Photo courtesy of Khan Academy
Now the challenge is to find the poor connection. I'll see if I can find what's upstream in my 97 FSM, and compare it to a 94 FSM. If it's the same, it's probably safe to assume that it's the same for a 96.
The problem is that the 96 is a bastard year. It was transitional between the old style and the new style. There are oddities, I hear.
However, that will have to wait for tomorrow afternoon, as I'm hitting the sack.
Well, I don't have a manual for a 96. They seem to be made of Unobtainium. Nobody seems to have a PDF version. I have a few others, though. The backup lights in a 97 ground at G302, which is common to a bunch of things, including the fuel pump and your dome lights. If you aren't having problems with those, it's probably not the ground. And your test with jumping 12v to the connector also points to good ground, so.... next!
So, 8.3 volts? That seems mighty low. My guess is there is a poor connection somewhere upstream of that point. Could be corrosion in a connection, or a frayed wire that is holding on by a strand or two.
A poor connection upstream will act like a resistor, dropping the voltage that is available to your lamps. It's like R1 in this diagram. Your lamps are R2. Instead of getting the 12v that is at the top of R1, you get... something less. How much less depends on the ratio of the values of R1 and R2. For example, if they are equal, you'll get 6v at the top of R2. It can be calculated if the value of R1 and R2 are known. In your case, it looks like R1 is leaving you 8.3.
Photo courtesy of Khan Academy
Now the challenge is to find the poor connection. I'll see if I can find what's upstream in my 97 FSM, and compare it to a 94 FSM. If it's the same, it's probably safe to assume that it's the same for a 96.
The problem is that the 96 is a bastard year. It was transitional between the old style and the new style. There are oddities, I hear.
However, that will have to wait for tomorrow afternoon, as I'm hitting the sack.
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#8
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Thanks so much for your help so far. from what I imagine it probably goes from the fuse to there the only issue is it’s fed into the main wiring loom if it’s possible I could just reword that section. And yeah having a bastard year with 380k on it has led to some creative problem solving
#9
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
As you are a site 'guru' and help a lot of guys out, I can PM you a copy of my .pdfs for the '96 ELECTRICAL CHAPTER (all I have)
These were photocopied from an actual '96 manual, so the thing must exist
( think someone on here said he ordered a '96 manual from Rockauto?)
a Jeep owner allowed me to download them via Torrent
He told me that for everything else, (bar electrical), use the 95 or 97 FSM
and yes, I agree with your advice, its NO good checking continuity on a big current draw item with a multimeter (has +20M ohms input resistance, so current draw will be micro amps)
#10
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You can buy the 96 XJ FSM off ebay, as a cd. If you prefer the hard copy, there are 9 (XJ) on ebay right now. There are aslo some for the ZJ. The XJ and ZJ FSM are both purple, so read carefully.
#11
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It is possible that both aftermarket NSS are failing to close the reverse light circuit. I have the same problem on my 96, and I have heard that getting the NSS adjustment positioned correctly for the shift position but also working for the reverse light circuit is a common problem/challenge.
If I push my shifter up towards park at the top of reverse, I can get my lights to activate (usually just a little flickering). But this is a sure sign that the NSS is not doing what it is supposed to do. I recommend doing a similar test to see if you can get any reverse light activity at all.
If I push my shifter up towards park at the top of reverse, I can get my lights to activate (usually just a little flickering). But this is a sure sign that the NSS is not doing what it is supposed to do. I recommend doing a similar test to see if you can get any reverse light activity at all.
#12
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Since I don't have a 96, I'm not in the market for one. A freebie would be welcome, simply to make it easier to help other Jeepers on this forum.
#14
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Yes, it would. That could be done as a test only, to tell you more about the problem, or if it works, it could be a temporary solution while you try to find the bad connection, or it could be a permanent solution, if you wish.
#15
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I don’t mind doing that if it will pass inspection I got rejected because of it and can’t drive it . And the only other reason I’m not looking over it with a fine tooth comb is it’s 100+ degrees south of Boston for the next week it’ll be unforgiving. But on the positive side I looked into the manuals you guys were talking about and rockauto indeed sells them I picked up one on cd as it was only 20 bucks.