CLIFF NOTES AT BOTTOM!!

decided to test out cruise after I switched my 60mm throttle body and 784 injectors. No luck. Worked perfect before, anyone got a clue?

Also if it helps im getting codes p0123 and p0122. And possibly p0138, but I replaced a 15amp fuse that made that code disappear for others and cleared the codes. figured I'd drive around a bit before I check it again.

And the 123 and 122 codes seem to contradict one another, one is high input and one is low input at the tps??

Gah and another thing. I reset the computer with the 30 secs of wires together and ign on then lights on then off then ign off, right after I finished putting it back together from the swap. And I decided to do the kick down cable adjustment while I was there. Now my shift points are still smooth, but they are a lot higher than it was before this whole swap...

Cliff Notes:
Things Done!! Put in 60mm t-body, 784 inj, reset computer, adjusted kick down cable, cleaned NSS.

New Symptoms!! codes p0123 & p0122, Higher shift points than before everything, Cruise no longer works!

 

just to check the simple, obvious things first, you did hook up the cruise cable to the new throttle body...?

 

Only three cables right? If not then no... But I'm pretty certain there are only three cables.

 

C'mon, I even made some nice cliff notes...

 

Did you check your vaccum lines?

 

yeah, used carb cleaner to look. I also tried to check voltage on the tps... If I did it right than its bad... It shows over 4.3v on the middle wire with the ignition on but engine not running.

I found this http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-test-tps-610386/ post #5.

I'm gonna go try the ohms thing real fast. I'll report back.

 

Too cold. Went to the chow hall and back...Not leaving my room till tomorrow haha

 

4.3v? is that the reference voltage wire? You need to check voltage at the signal wire. Not sure of the color. If you ever see 0V or 5V there is an open or short. it should always be between 0 and 5. Make sure you test it with the key on engine off. If you see a sharp drop in voltage while doing a slow sweep of the throttle there is a dead spot in the petentiometer.

As far as the shift points. You said you reset the computer? Well a PCM has KAM(keep alive memory). Which is learned information that the computer has developed over time based on driving condtions, engine wear, driving habits, and lots of other things. Since you deleted it, the computer has to relearn all of its strategies again and may take time for it to re-learn shift points.

No cruise could be caused by the codes being related to the TPS which is a major input to a cruise control module. Also could be related to a vacuum leak. Hope this helps

 

It was the middle wire.. the other one had 5v. How do I do the ohm test from the link I posted? Do i disconnect and test the tps with my probes or the harness with my probes?? I hate electricity

 

Well there should be 3 wires. One Power(around 5v) ,signal (between 0 and 5 but not equal to either), and ground (close to 0v). poke the back side of the connector where the wires go into it. Hook the ground cable of your meter to the battery negative. Put the meter to DC Volts. Tell me what you get for voltage at all 3 wires with the key on engine off. Do it white the throttle closed and wide open

 

and sorry i dont have a database at home to tell you exactly which wire is which, otherwise i would

 

played with it for a while. Couldn't figure out exactly what the post i linked means.. But on to what i played around with, the middle should be the signal as with it disconnected it gives 4.33 volts and the other gives 5.15 volts. However, this is straight from the harness. I mean disconnected and put on the connectors. I can't seem to get a good connection with it connected to the sensor through the back. I wish the sensor had a harness so I could just splice it.

Should I just push harder into the back of it? lol

 

You have to test it with it plugged in. Try using a paper clip to stab into the back side of it

 

Ok. I'll try to report back sooner this time

 

Ok. After some fine handiwork getting the pin in there, reads 4.34 from idle to wot. And on top of that i think I figured out why not to start it...? or maybe this means something else. I got bored and started it, don't remember what the volts were at, but it immediately revved to 1500 and then climbed its way up to 2500. So I turned it off.

Edit: BTW my method of getting the pin in there was to disconnect the tps and put the pin inside the harness and then reconnect it. Took some work but I finally got it on the middle wire without it disconnecting when I reconnected it.