99 XJ Cherokee SE 4.0 AW4 130K with manual windows and locks. All stock and fairly clean.

No Crank, No Power, No Lights, No Radio

I will start at the beginning. While troubleshooting a Long Crank/Fuel Pump issue I think I triggered the alarm system. While I was checking for pressure in the fuel rail at the schrader valve, I turned the key to Run four times without trying to crank the engine to build pressure in the fuel rail. At this point the Alarm armed itself and things escalated quickly. All the dash warning(idiot) lights and the radio stopped working. I have only had the dash lights work once after letting the car soak overnight with the negative battery terminal removed.

Troubleshooting steps and observations taken to date:

• Alarm – EVS II p/n: 04883255
  • Reset alarm with FOB
  • Reset alarm with hidden switch – no real effect noted
  • Alarm seems to arm and disarm randomly and chatter at will
  • Remove harness from the Ignition Switch and reconnect directly to the factory harness – no change
  • Remove/replace fuse from the alarm harness
  • Relays in alarm are clicking while turning the key
• Swap relays for the starter
• Cold soak with battery disconnected
• Horn does not sound; however, the horn relay makes a clicking sound
• Radio – No Power in any key position
• Headlights – No Power in any key position
• No Crank
• 12V outlet has power
• Inserting key into ignition activates the normal beeping sound

Is this really just the Ignition Starter Switch and the Starter Switch Actuator Pin? Turning the key does seem to also turn the Ignition Starter Switch. The NSS and the CPS have not been an issue to date either. Running out of theories and patience…

 

I would say a failing Ignition switch could be the issue

Chattering is normally a sign of low current, and this can be wiring, so the main harness and PDC connection are first suspects

Does the inside fan work?..that pulls a fair bit of current

Do you have the FSM?

likely to have a diagnostic for key wiring

I do not think the ignition switch is difficult or expensive to replace, so if the major wiring checks ok (do a voltage drop test), I would replace it next