Mike1998XJ

If you are going to put disk brakes off a 95-98 Grand Cherokee on your Cherokee there are several sites that explain how to do it. This post explains an optional way I came up with to connect the parking brake cables to the parking brake armature.

See pictures it's pretty clear what was done.
A few notable points include:
1. It's easier to shorten the length of the spring this way because you can take it off. Make sure to get a clean cut on the cable. The Passengers side I did was frayed because I used a hack saw. The Drivers side was smooth, I used an air cut-off grinding wheel and it did not unravel at all. I cut close to the cable end, then trimmed more later and put heat-shrink tubing over it, so rust or unravelling should not be an issue.
2. It's easier to preload the spring because you can cut it long then compress it as you install the clamp. This is a key point because many of the installs I've seen using a loop in the cable don't preload the spring properly. The spring is what disengages the parking brake pads so it has to be under compression. Also, using this method you don't have to deal with bending and looping the cable, which is a pain.
3. In this method if you make a mistake and cut the spring too short, you can add washers if need be to get more preload on the spring. On the Loop method you cannot do that.
Assuming you already have the disk brakes on your cherokee here's what I did.
1. I loosened the "Equalizer Nut" which is what holds the forward ends of the cables where they come together under the back seat. I loosened it almost all the way. Just to make sure I had max travel available...
2. I cut the cable ends off at the disks. I cut them as long as possible because I knew I was going to do a final trim cut on the cable. Actually I wouldn't have needed the final trim cut...
3. I eyeballed the spring and cut it long so it would have preload. The length I cut it at was 3.630". I could have left an extra .100" on there for more preload. Start with 3.730"+ if you try this.
4. I reversed the clamp and ground the points off (in Yellow) so the flat side would rest on the armature and the nuts would have a flat to seat against.
Note: Once everything was adjusted and I was satisfied with the fit, I Cut a piece of heat-shrink tubing for the end of the cable and melted it on.
5. I pushed the spring forward and held it there while I tightened the clamp. The clamp is not crushing the spring. This allows the spring to flex and move easier. Another benefit over some of the Loop style installs I have seen.
6. I then took the slack out of the cables with the equalizer nut and cut the excess cable off near the disks. Could have forgone this cut by just taking more slack up with equalizer nut.
7. Engage and disengage the parking brake and verify the preload is enough to disengage the parking brake pads when the handle is released. Verify brake works, adjust if necesasary.
That's it!
Mike
Here's the whole process, someone else did this, the last picture is of the Loop method they used: http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html