CF Veteran
Quote:
he does not have a reg brake light switch he has one with six connectors so with ou knowing which one was the power wire jumping it did no good he stated all lights worked they are feed from same fuse so going by his statyement all bulbs good had to be switch according to the info provided .then bulbs were rechecked and wala bulbs badOriginally Posted by ezab
Here are the diagrams for the brake lights. If you are getting power to the brake switch and the brake switch is good it has to be the turn signal switch. I can not believe someone would tell you to replace a switch that after you jumped the wires and the lights still did not work.
CF Veteran
Quote:
and I am officially an idiot
It was the bulbs after all. I didn't realise that the top set of bulbs in the rear were dual filament stop and tail lights. So.. when I wanted to test the bulbs, I put the headlights on so I knew which ones NOT to test.
So, the tail light filament was working on both sides, but the stop filament was broken on both side.
It was the bulbs.
the damn bulbs all this time....
Thank you for all your help, I'm really sorry to have wasted your time! I'm posting this up incase someone as clueless as me has the same problem in the future!
great came down to east fix glad i could helpOriginally Posted by Morat
SOLVED!and I am officially an idiot
It was the bulbs after all. I didn't realise that the top set of bulbs in the rear were dual filament stop and tail lights. So.. when I wanted to test the bulbs, I put the headlights on so I knew which ones NOT to test.
So, the tail light filament was working on both sides, but the stop filament was broken on both side.
It was the bulbs.
the damn bulbs all this time....
Thank you for all your help, I'm really sorry to have wasted your time! I'm posting this up incase someone as clueless as me has the same problem in the future!
Seasoned Member
Quote:
I am not going to argue but you seem to be leaving out the fact that power does run from the brake light switch and thru the turn signal switch and then back to lights. Why it does I have no idea but it does. So there it did not "have to be the switch". The wiring diagram is posted.Originally Posted by freegdr
he does not have a reg brake light switch he has one with six connectors so with ou knowing which one was the power wire jumping it did no good he stated all lights worked they are feed from same fuse so going by his statyement all bulbs good had to be switch according to the info provided .then bulbs were rechecked and wala bulbs bad
CF Veteran
Quote:
all problems have to be fixed thru a process of elimination there called trouble trees in the automotive field follwing them will find the problem faster thats what ive learned from the 30years in the field and being tought by a master tech as long as the problem is fixed that what makes the customer happy.i never make any statements about other mechanics statements as to why or how they came to there conclusions .Originally Posted by ezab
I am not going to argue but you seem to be leaving out the fact that power does run from the brake light switch and thru the turn signal switch and then back to lights. Why it does I have no idea but it does. So there it did not "have to be the switch". The wiring diagram is posted.
Newbie
I discovered that the wiring loom in the rear hatch shorts out on the left screw holding in the third brake light. This causes a direct ground and blows the fuse.
It may also cause the dome lights and tail light to stay on very dimly when the ignition is turned off. Oddly, when a door is opened, the dimmed lights would go out.
Remove the third brake light lense, peek in and identify the wiring loom on the left side. Inspect for shorts and insulate as needed. I was unable to repair the short because I could'nt get full access to the wiring, but did insulate it so that it would not short out again. I lost power to the third brake light in the process... oh well.
It may also cause the dome lights and tail light to stay on very dimly when the ignition is turned off. Oddly, when a door is opened, the dimmed lights would go out.
Remove the third brake light lense, peek in and identify the wiring loom on the left side. Inspect for shorts and insulate as needed. I was unable to repair the short because I could'nt get full access to the wiring, but did insulate it so that it would not short out again. I lost power to the third brake light in the process... oh well.
Newbie
Quote:
FWIW I had the same problem on my 2001 60th anniv xj (UK spec), no brake lights but good switch and bulbs. Turns out the problem was a blown fuse in the PDC which I believe relates to a speed control module. Downstream to the switch it appears the circuit goes through this fuse as part of the cruise control module irrespective of whether your truck has cruise or not. It then returns to complete the brake light circuit. Also might be worth checking for shorts as something must have caused the fuse to blow. So if you find the same symptoms, check the PDC go though all the fuses checking for a blow out then check for shorts.Originally Posted by ezab
I am not going to argue but you seem to be leaving out the fact that power does run from the brake light switch and thru the turn signal switch and then back to lights. Why it does I have no idea but it does. So there it did not "have to be the switch". The wiring diagram is posted.