Riddle me this.
So my starter went bad so I went to my local parts store to pick up a new one for the 2000 jeep cherokee. The solenoid is attached to the starter itself. After installing the new starter I go to start my car and it runs. HORAY! I let it idle for a bit to charge up my battery then I turn it off. When i go to restart my car i lost all power to everything. I checked my fuses in my fuse box and they all seem to fine.
I am at a loss, what did i do wrong? Could i have possible blown a fuse link? Did i blow the new the starter?
I do have a bit of an oil leak and i believe this is the reason to why I blew my old starter, due to oil getting inside the connections. (or just an bad starter)
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you cherokee forum.
Ps, this is only my second post.

 

I'm no real help except maybe to mention that the battery terminal connections can be tricky. They can look OK, but that thin grey layer of oxidization is a surprisingly good insulator. Shiny lead/metal is what you want. Something to do anyway....Welcome!

 

wow.. I feel like such a noob. Sanded the terminal down a bit and it works prefect.
THANK YOU!

 

Hey, don't feel bad. For one you just did it. Sometimes it's a knockdown, drag out, wrestling match trying to get some people to get that!

I'm not recommending it to anyone, but I've been putting regular wheel bearing grease, inside and out, all over everything for 20 years and my Bat. connections are about always fine. A product, Oxyguard, might be on the shelf at the auto parts store for about $1.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

 

Been using one of these for years;

 

Unlike dressing a copper fitting for solder, a bristle brush can cut into soft lead and leave the hard, brittle crust points standing. With one of those a bunch of up and down is needed, besides turning, in my opinion. I have about a dozen cars here that start and run, but never seem to need one of those. The Spartan is my Swiss army knife of choice. (You can put the tweezers under the corkscrew, across the lanyard ring and pull down to make a great clip). Getting stoned and handing your SAK to somebody has it's down side though.