New Spicer U-Joint cap popped its top.
#1
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New Spicer U-Joint cap popped its top.
I started working on the ball joints last week and noticed that one of my U-joints, at the spindle joint, was a bit sticky. After closer inspection, I noticed that one cap was actually damaged and I could see the dried up needle bearings. Anyways, I had to wait until Monday for the shop in town, who carries Spicer, to be open. I finally got around to installing the new ones tonight when I ran into a little snag. I wasn't doing the 5lb sledge and socket routine; just a ball joint press and an impact. Now let me clarify on impact, we're talking barely pop'in it, none of this hammer'n action . I just couldn't get enough leverage with my 1/2" socket wrench; not to mention I'm only 155lbs. I had the entire thing together when I just couldn't quite get the last c-clip in. I pop'ed it one more time and "POP!" the end of the one already clipped in just popped off... Has anyone ever seen this before?
Last edited by s14unimog; 11-15-2010 at 08:17 PM.
#2
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Year: 1998
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Never saw that happen before, but I never used a ball joint press either.
I wonder if the ears of the yolk flexed & moved slightly towards each other.
Maybe you could hold them apart with something the next try. Or tap the upper one in the top pic upwards to make room for the clip.
I wonder if the ears of the yolk flexed & moved slightly towards each other.
Maybe you could hold them apart with something the next try. Or tap the upper one in the top pic upwards to make room for the clip.
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so you have the lower cap seated with it's clip.
The cross is seated down in the lower cap.
Then the top cap bottoms out on the cross.
This is where you stop turning the "C" clamp screw.
Now you have to force the top yolk hoop away from center to clearance the new ring. Should only take a light tap with a small ball peen & some safety glasses. Maybe two big screwdrivers to pry with..
Be careful stuff doesn't start slipping, or you might need someone to ride you to the nearest E/R.
The cross is seated down in the lower cap.
Then the top cap bottoms out on the cross.
This is where you stop turning the "C" clamp screw.
Now you have to force the top yolk hoop away from center to clearance the new ring. Should only take a light tap with a small ball peen & some safety glasses. Maybe two big screwdrivers to pry with..
Be careful stuff doesn't start slipping, or you might need someone to ride you to the nearest E/R.
#5
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yeah that's pretty much the only solution. I just wouldn't have thought it would have broken like that. Oh well, live and learn.
Can you just replace the caps? The warning note that comes with them seems to really highlight "unequal lubrication" if caps are switched or removed. I guess at $25-ish its worth just getting another one.
Can you just replace the caps? The warning note that comes with them seems to really highlight "unequal lubrication" if caps are switched or removed. I guess at $25-ish its worth just getting another one.
#7
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I think the press is fine. I just should have recognized that there wasn't any more travel left. I may have bent the ears inwards a few thousandths when removing the old ones.
I'm just surprised this wouldn't happen to someone while removing some old stuck ones...
I'm just surprised this wouldn't happen to someone while removing some old stuck ones...
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
when using the clamp to install put the pressure on the outer part of cap not on the inner where the spicer writeing is its thicker on the out side cap most likely caved in causing the top to snap off
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You know that once you have all four clips installed, that you have to tap the yolks around so that the clips are seated all the way to the yolks inner surface.
In other words, the caps are as far apart as the clips will allow.
Otherwise grease may not flow to all four bearings.
In other words, the caps are as far apart as the clips will allow.
Otherwise grease may not flow to all four bearings.
#10
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yeah I installed the other one on the short axle side and had to use a drift and hammer to seat all of the clips well. It didn't take much but you could tell some of the clips hadn't seated all the way. I went by the parts store this morning. Its a Heavy Duty Trucks store that does any and all work to big rigs. I asked them what they thought and their guy there said he had never seen that before. They didn't hesitate to swap it out for another; even after I offered to pay. I'll see how this goes later this evening.
I see what you're saying but I'm not so sure that will make a difference. The journal of the cross is what punched out the other side, you can't avoid moving the entire piece when pressing them together.
I see what you're saying but I'm not so sure that will make a difference. The journal of the cross is what punched out the other side, you can't avoid moving the entire piece when pressing them together.
Last edited by s14unimog; 11-16-2010 at 08:08 AM.
#11
I never use a press to push in the new caps. I usually press them out, of if I'm at home do the socket and hammer trick. Then to install them, I use one of these that are small enough to fit inside the ear and clean out all the rust/corrosion. After that is done, I can usually install them with just a few light taps.
#12
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I've been using a press or a large vice as a press for 32 years. Changed hundreds of U Joints.. Never had a problem unless you happen to drop a needle bearing in the cup.
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