@ the OP.... oh the saga of the gearbox hell on our XJ's...
oh holy moly..... I gave up on the reman gearbox route when the last one I put in my 99 xj lasted a wopping 3 months before it hit the fan and started leaking like a sieve.
So I ponied up and did what I should've done in the first place. Forked over the cash for a Redhead gearbox. The steering is super light now. Probably better than when it was new considering the fact that they really beef up how they rebuild those boxes, putting in better bearings, gears, etc.
I would never look back on that reman nightmare again. And the 4x4 off-road Jeep shop I ordered it through said that in all their years, they'd never seen a Redhead box ever come back for replacement.
So I was like sign me up to get off this crazy train... old jeeps throw enough fits as it is... lol

 

Thanks, RocketMouse. You are right, this is way more trouble than it should be. And there is not a lot of information when it does go wrong.

I may go the way of the Redhead, but since I have the rebuild seal kit for my old box, I think I'll give that a shot first. Wish me luck. I will update.

On my list of things to do before winter arrives full force, I want to do all the brake lines, master cylinder and prop valve too. Then do another trans fluid change, and I a new pan gasket. Add to this the headlamp switch started acting up last weekend on a long night time trip (oh crap, what's going on). New tires too, would be nice. Then if we get a warm spell, I will reinstall my reman gearbox. The work is never done.

 

I would've done the rebuild route myself too...but right now apartment life is raining on my campfire as I can't do everything I know how to do on vehicles without getting grouched at by management. I was able to sneak in a radiator swap about 2 months ago...and did my drive-train U-joints this past summer too...but it was a close call.
I really wish in retrospect that I had not even considered remans...but live and learn. So far Redheads seem to be with the little extra cash. Plus in my research on them, I heard nothing but good things from them. They are about twice the cost of a standard (crap-sandwich) reman from the local parts store. But this is all Redhead does, and have been in business for about 30 years doing it.....so...with a solid reputation, I was willing to give it a go to get out of the seemingly never ending rat-race of garbage remans. and so far knock on wood, it seems to be working. No leaks...and steering is really "light" for a 21 year old jeep with solid axles. Which makes for a lot less stress on the power steering pump IMHO. so a win-win.

 

BTW....I am in NO way endorsed by Redhead products for the content of the previous message....lol...
I just know what a royal PITA it was for me to get my jeep's steering to where it is now and want to pass on the info.

 

Glad you got most of the bugs worked out.

Just a tip: anyone who considers a new steering box should FIRST test the intermediate steering shaft for freeplay. Just a micro-amount of freeplay in the 25+ year old shaft adds up to a lot at the steering wheel. Those little u-joints or a slip joint/rag joint could each have a minute amount of wear (from 25 years of use or big tires), and overall it may spoof you into thinking the steering box is loose when it 'could' be the shaft. I've seen this on several vehicles.

To test: Put a vise grips on the steering box input shaft down at the steering gear (or bottom of intermediate steering shaft). Then temporarily secure the vise-grip pliers to the frame by rope, wire, ratchet strap ..2x4s or whatever you have handy (just make sure the vise grip pliers is secure ...won't move at all). Then go inside, turn the key to release the steering lock (don't start the vehicle), then gently wiggle the steering wheel back/fourth and feel for 'free play'. There should be almost NONE. If there is some, then replace the shaft or any other worn parts. Sometimes even the lower bushing/bearing at the bottom of the steering column wears or rusts out.

The steering gear could still have wear, but if the intermediate shaft has free-play then there will still be 'slop' after installing a new steering gear. Flush and use good (new) proper steering fluid per the manual.

BTW, It would be really difficult to overtighten a steering gear. The specs are pretty wide. A guy would really have to crank on the adjustments during the rebuild process to make a noticeable difference when driving. Also, during the rebuild process, the FIRST adjustment they want ya to make is the pre-load which is tightening the nut at the steering shaft input, then once the pre-load is set, yer supposed to tighten the top screw. Not the other way around and for good reason.

Hope it helps....

 

Check your reservoir cap. The rubber gasket/seal on the cap can wear out over time getting a groove in it from the top of the reservoir and you'll get vaporized PS fluid out of the cap that will look like a leak.

 

How are the ball joints? Just wondering since it looks like the tires are wearing the inside edges.

 

Yeah, those tires are ready to be replaced. I just want to get the steering situation fixed first.

As for the ball joints, I replaced them a few years ago with Spicers, they have around 35,000 miles. But you make a good point, I will check them just to make sure. Thank you for the idea.

 

Vaporized fluid, wow, the things you learn. It is a reman unit, so I will double check the cap. Thanks.

 

Really useful info, Jeepwalker. I will keep in mind as I do the rebuild.

Question, does the intermediate column collapse any, so that the steering gearbox does not have to be removed to change the intermediate column? The new one I got looks solid, but I haven't tried too hard to collapse it.

When I get a chance I will post a picture.

 

Good point to check that too... don't want to overlook that joint for possible play before assuming that it's a bad box. Assuming anything with a Jeep is a bad way to start honestly. lol

 

It 'should' collapse a little. Maybe enough to remove especially on older XJs. If not you could easily drop the steering column, back it off a little ..let the steering wheel rest on the seat. Just a few bolts, leave the wiring in tact if possible. Lot easier than removing the steering gear unless that was part of the replacement process. 'Test' the shaft for free-play first and determine it's integrity.

Per the other question: Yep. There are 3 main points of potential wear depending on the style of shaft. Mainly at Two U-joints and the slip-joint.

 

My main point for checking the intermediate shaft is, it's an oft-overlooked component which could cause steering 'slop'. If it's worn, its easier and cheaper to replace than a steering gear. Or both may need to be replaced. Easy to check it when diagnosing steering freeplay.

Also, don't overlook the bottom steering column bearing/bushing.

 

I think on the older Jeeps (pre 97) they have a little cage on the steering shaft that houses a rubber bushing. The bushing is known to wear and cause all sorts of slop in the steering. Most people just weld the cage together and run it. I cant find any pictures of what it looks like but if you pop the hood and take a look, you will see it.

 

Thank you for the replies Jeepwalker and 5-Speed. Sorry I didn't reply earlier, I got distracted by other things.

One being rebuilding my old gearbox.

Here are some pictures of the finished box. I just need to put the plug ring on and it will be done. Also, anybody know the torque spec for the 4 bolts on the cover?





I am pretty sure this pic below is important as it shows the flat side of the input shaft facing up. The flat side of the input shaft should be facing up with the piston centered in the box. This position will match the center position of the intermediate column, which is the center position for the steering wheel. Since there is no adjustment at the intermediate column or the steering wheel to center the steering wheel and gear box. The only adjustment is at the drag link and that has a limit, I think.



Below I have the new intermediate column mating with the input shaft. Notice the collar at the steering wheel end has the open clamp side facing up (that is center position for the steering wheel). At the input shaft side the clamp is side ways and the flat side of the clamp matches the up facing flat side of the input shaft. At this position the pitman arm should be centered, or pretty damn close to it, and it should match the center position for the steering wheel. Though I think there is a tiny bit of range side to side that is considered centered.

This center position is achieved when installing the first ball bearing in the piston. The way the ball bearing goes in in relation to the worm gear will dictate if the input shaft and piston are centered. If you are off then the flat side of the input shaft will not be looking up, which means the steering wheel will not be centered when the pitman arm is centered.

Just looking at my current/replacement gearbox (in the Jeep right now), I can see the position on the clamp collars are all wrong. I didn't know that when I first installed it, but now I understand why the pitman arm needs so much adjustment to center the steering wheel.