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New radiator, worth getting copper/brass over alum?

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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #31  
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Idk the exact measurements but definately looks thicker
Attached Thumbnails New radiator, worth getting copper/brass over alum?-photo545.jpg  
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Motor mounts better be in "like new" condition or else the fan clutch will be contacting the rad rad core
That doesn't seem to be a problem either
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #33  
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That looks like OE style 1 row plastic/aluminum to me........I thought u said u got this rad with a 2 3/8" thick core, not a skinny 1 1/8" core. OE factory is 1 1/4" thick core.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-1-Tube...ht_4443wt_1396

If it's really 2 3/8" thick, I bet motor mounts become an issue.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by djb383
That looks like OE style 1 row plastic/aluminum to me........I thought u said u got this rad with a 2 3/8" thick core, not a skinny 1 1/8" core. OE factory is 1 1/4" thick core.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-1-Tube...ht_4443wt_1396
Like I said, I don't know the exact measurements. It looks like 2 oem size cores. It doesn't really matter cuz I took the fan completely off and bolted the pulley back on after a water pump replacement and it ran under 210 with no fan at all. It was about 40 degrees outside but you'd think it would get hot with no fan at all
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #35  
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Mine has plastic tanks btw
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by kickice24
I'm in need of one myself and after some searching, I found a few all-aluminum rads for well under $200. They're out there. Just spend a little time. I'm thinking about this one, though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-1-Tube...ht_4443wt_1396
Originally Posted by XJdryva
I got it in mine. The thickness comes to the front where there's at least a 1 inch gap between the rad and AC condenser. I dropped my e fan on it and gouged a hole in it but got that welded and haven't had a problem since. Yeah it does bolt in with no issues
There is a huge difference between the rad u have and the rad kickice24 linked. That's why I asked "who's installed one of those huge rads?".....what u installed isn't as thick as OE stock.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by djb383
There is a huge difference between the rad u have and the rad kickice24 linked. That's why I asked "who's installed one of those huge rads?".....what u installed isn't as thick as OE stock.
That's definatly no the same rad but I wouldn't want that one simply for the fact that they're full of it. They say you might spend $600-$1200 for a dual core radiator when I got one for $40
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:45 PM
  #38  
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I don't think u have a 2 row....at 1 1/8" thick, it's a 1 row. Rads only have 1 core and they have 1 or multiple rows.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I believe the FSM says the plastic tanks are stronger than metal ones.
Plastic tanks are held on to the aluminum core by crimping them on and have a rubber gasket to help seal it. This is were OE radiators commonly fail- aluminum crimp begins to crack under stress, the plastic tank seperates, and fluid starts leaking out. A weld or solder is going to hold up much better to the extream abuse radiators are put though, in my opinion. I'm sure the FSM/Jeep Dealership isn't going to tell you the radiator that came stock in your vehicle is inferior and is prone to failing. Again, my opinion.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:10 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I don't think u have a 2 row....at 1 1/8" thick, it's a 1 row. Rads only have 1 core and they have 1 or multiple rows.
Actually I don't really care what I have. I had a leaky crimp and a broke off upper neck before and $40 later I have an aluminum non leaking radiator that I've already put through hell just for test purposes and it has given me zero problems. I would recommend this to anyone that wants a good, cheap stock replacement radiator
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:31 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Cherockee
Plastic tanks are held on to the aluminum core by crimping them on and have a rubber gasket to help seal it. This is were OE radiators commonly fail- aluminum crimp begins to crack under stress, the plastic tank seperates, and fluid starts leaking out. A weld or solder is going to hold up much better to the extream abuse radiators are put though, in my opinion. I'm sure the FSM/Jeep Dealership isn't going to tell you the radiator that came stock in your vehicle is inferior and is prone to failing. Again, my opinion.
OE rads have been all metal for way longer than they've been plastic.....and what have radiators done since the very 1st one......corrode/rot and leak....and what do modern radiators (plastic) do after X amount of time....corrode/rot and leak.

Your opinion is modern rads are inferior (and that's cool), I simply disagree and think modern is superior at what they are designed to do and that's cool the motor. I don't think there's been a all metal rad factory installed for over 20 years. Do either one (old school or modern) last forever.....don't think so.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:46 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by XJdryva
Actually I don't really care what I have. I had a leaky crimp and a broke off upper neck before and $40 later I have an aluminum non leaking radiator that I've already put through hell just for test purposes and it has given me zero problems. I would recommend this to anyone that wants a good, cheap stock replacement radiator
.....and that's fine that u don't care, I simply asked if anyone had installed one of those 2 3/8" thick rads (that was linked) and if there were any issues.....u said u did (install a 2 3/8" thick core rad and paid $40 for it) and it turns out u didn't, so u can't answer my ?.....that's all. In 40 degree weather, the heater core may be all the XJ needs for a radiator. LOL
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