I bought front pinion seal from Autozone earlier this week. I noticed while taking a close look that its outer edge is slightly bent in. See where red arrow's pointing. Is the part still usable or should I go get it exchanged?

 

Should round itself back out when you tap it into place.

 

It'll be fine. Smear some rtv around the edge before you put it in and then over top when you are done. It'll clog any holes if there happens to be any and I doubt there will be.

Or....you can just take it back and ask for another one.

 

If you would feel more comfortable taking it back then you can, but i think once you tap it back in there, it should round itself back out

 

x2 youl be fine just put some rtv on the inside lip when you put it in make sure to clean out the surface before installing

 

Thanks for your feedback gentlemen. I'll keep the part and install it one of these days.

But before I begin, I need to find a strong and long enough pipe to be used over my short socket drive wrench so I'll be able to turn the pinion nut which is assumed to be torqued down to 180ft-lb or more. I already have a big enough pipe wrench to hold the yoke. My other thought is to extend my 150ft-lb range torque wrench with a 1/2" open ends wrench. This combination will let me easily torque to 180ft-lb or more. Get the visual from the following link...
http://www.norbar.com/Calculators/To...0/Default.aspx

 

i use my hi jack handle as an extension. i also got a 3/4 socket wrench that is 2 feet long with a 1/2 adapter. works like a charm. the ghetto way is to find a long socket that fits over the handle of your socket wrench and then connect extensions to it to make the handle longer.

last option would be to use your foot. slide under there and put your foot on the socket wrench and push. your hands can't match the power of your leg/foot

one final option would be to get an impact gun from harborfreight.com. $50
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31877

As for torquing the nut, mark the nut and splines before you remove it. When you reinstall, torque it to 150 (your wrench limit) and then tighten till the marks like up like they were before you took it off. Maybe a little bit tighter. It should be in the ballpark. That's how I did my dana 30 on my TJ about 4 years ago.

 

muddeprived -- All your methods are noted, great tips , thanks!

I only have basic tools and work under a carport, on a graveled ground, and with very limited storage space I can't buy any big equipment/tools. I didn't know an electric impact wrench existed. I may drop in pawn-exchange or Sears to go check it out.

 

oh they sure do exist. they will pay for themselves very quickly. they get tough nuts off and stubborn bolts out easily and all you do is squeeze your finger I have the harbor freight one and it's been almost three years now. I use it on everything.

 

By the way, I also need a 1-1/8" socket. Will a normal depth socket reach the pinion nut or do I need to buy a deep socket. And I will look for a 12 pointer, instead of six. I stopped by a Pawn X-Change but they didn't have the size I was looking for. Thanks again.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...socket&x=0&y=0

 

I have a normal depth socket from napa.

 

Guys,


Did you notice he has a 2000 XJ ?


That's a crush sleeve Dana 30. You cannot just "retorque" to 180 (or whatever) foot lbs.


I hope you marked where the old pinion nut was ... so you could re-install to that very position again (plus a half hair extra, if that).


Otherwise .. you're going to have to pull the carrier and check drag/preload.


Sure .. you can half-azz it .... but when it comes to pinions, you want to do it right.



Joe

 

Looks like someone gotta talk to Haynes and have them change their manual. It's for a 2001 and it says nothing about a crush sleeve or proper torque specs. It says that about the dana 35 crush sleeve but not the front 30.

I did the mark-the-nut trick on my TJ and it worked fine.

 

I do the mark-my-nuts trick all the time. errrr ...


That didn't quite come out right ....



By half-azzing, I meant just torquing it down until it feels right even tho the pinion is still meshed with the ring gear. Or just doing a "predetermined" torque value.



Joe