Planning on changing my pads, rotors and flushing the system on my 1999 XJ Limited. Reading online it appears there may be two styles of rotors of the 1999, is there a quick look I can do to determine what one I need?


Besides the above what else should I consider doing while I am working in this area?

 

Check the condition of the rubber lines. Look for any "ballooning" or any splits in the outer covering.

Probably should at least check the rears while you're working.

Rodger

 

what has everyone found to be the best pads/rotors, shoes?
I am in need of new brakes too

 

I just run gold level pads from AA along with basic rotors. I upgraded my rear to disk brakes so I run the same back there. It's a huge help to stop those 35s I'm running.

 

either take the rotors off and take them to the store for a match up or buy both kinds and return the set you dont use. thats what i did with my rear drums. got the lifetime napa brake shoes and the spring kits for both sides and put new cylinders on it too. was not all that expensive. wont need to mess with them for a good while. my front discs have a few good years left on them. when it is time, will do the same.

 

That word 'best' when it comes to brakes can mean many things. You could go broke real quick buying elite brake setups for an XJ, but the stock front brakes seem to be just fine. Bigger wheels would prefer bigger brakes, but these things are not meant for speed.

The best I found for regular driving were $35 for rotors and like $20 for pads at AZ in AZ. For my Supras, the equivalent cost 3x that and they were very similar in quality. I am so grateful that the Jeep parts are so (comparatively) cheap, cus we seem to need a lot of them...

 

Everything you need to know is in this thread, including how to tell if you have cast or composite rotors:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...9/#post3146337

Enjoy.

 

I just hauled in a rotor after they gave me the wrong one on my '99. MUCH easier to lay it on counter and say "I need two of these.".

 

I recently did rotors and pads on my 99. I went with ebc yellows and there dimpled slotted rotors. Dusty as all get out but will beat the bump stops when you brake hard.

 

You do know it's common to have your rotors turned, instead of chucking them? If they are worn beyond tolerance, they won't turn them. Used to be pretty cheap, but I think it's still 10-$12. N Cal Don here!

 

I don't know if it will be an issue on an XJ but every car I ever had the rotors turned on ended up having warped rotors a few thousand miles later (turning makes them thinner and more prone to warping/cracking). It depends on the shop, but most places I've seen charge around $20 ea. to turn the rotors and since new XJ rotors only run around $30 ea. so it really isn't worth the savings to risk that they will warp after being turned and you'll end up buying new rotors anyhow.


If your rotors are in good shape you may just be able to throw a new set of pads on and leave the rotors alone (that's what I did with mine a few years ago and I haven't had any issues).

 

yeah, i have a good friend that has been working over 25 years in a garage. and they stopped turning rotors and drums years ago. not expensive for new ones and the car gets off the lift a whole lot faster. better to have new anyhow. no sense in tripping over a dollar to pick up a dime...

 

The best pad you can buy for stopping power and heat fadding are the "Hawk" brand pads I think Quadratec sells them along with other places. I have been using them for years on my race cars where hard braking is a biggie. They have been around a long time in the racing market with a lot of people running them.


On my XJ on long down hill grades they never seem to overheat either and stop very well. They do cost a little more but my XJ isn't a DD either and mine are still in great shape after 2 yrs. now.

 

No argument with all of the above. Turning made more sense when rotors were $50 and turning was 8....Does matter how much they take off though.

 

Thank you for the link, very good information. I pulled a front wheel off and measured as shown and then went and bought the pads and rotors. Two hours after starting the job I was back on the road.


I do plan on bleeding the lines next week to give them a good flush.