Specs are on my site, Tech section. All specs pulled from FSMs.

Filters? Baldwin if you can get them, Wix if you can't. The AW4 will just want a gasket - the "filter" is merely a metal-screen strainer, just clean it and put it back.

Do not use ATF +3/+4 in the AW4. I know there's a TSB out that sez it's okeh now, but reports from the field still run about half-and-half on getting good results. Use Dexron/Mercon, that's what's supposed to be in there.

Check your rear differential tags - if the original tags are still in place (if they aren't someone got lazy...) and you have an LSD, you will have a small tag on one screw that says to use LSD lubricant, and the long "build tag" (part number, axle ratio, &c) will say "3L54" instead of "3.54" for the ratio - the "L" stands for "locking."

If you're not sure, just buy a small bottle of Friction Modifier for the rear axle and eyeball the carrier when you get the cover off - if you have a clutch-based LSD (which requires FM additive,) the clutches will be visible behind the "side gears" - which are the small gears that the axle shafts stick into.

Useful Wiki pages:
Differential, General: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differe...ical_device%29
Differential, Limited Slip: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential
Differential, Mechanical Locking: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_differential

Pages are illustrated (in a general sense,) to give you a better idea of what you'd be looking at in there.

NB: If you have LSD and do not use FM additive, you are likely to get clutch chatter going around turns in short order. This may or may not correct with FM being added - often, you just end up replacing the clutches.

If you do not have LSD ("open" differential) and you do use FM additive, you won't harm anything.

So, if you're not sure, go ahead and add it - worst case, you're out a few bucks while you're figuring it out, but a small bottle of FM is invariably cheaper than replacing clutch packs!